Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just wanted to ask a question and wondering if you guys can help me out...a 32 i'm interested in has had a rb25det conversion..the current owner says you have to engineer it so if i decide to buy this 32 do i have to get it engineered? or can i just go to vic roads and change the engine number? i asked a few people and said that you wouldn't have to and can just change engine number at vic roads?

also want to know if i do have to who does it in vic? prefer western suburbs. also anyone know prices? thanks people

Yes you need an engineers.

Whoever is telling you just to change the engine numbers is stupid and will end up causing you more trouble in the long run.

You must change it legally if you want your insurance to be validated first and foremost.

On top of that the Police can defect/fine you etc, they aren't stupid. ;)

See the VicRoads link for all the approved VASS engineers, and the closest one to you.

http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/RoadSa...ficatesVASS.htm

Prices will vary from $600-$800 as you'll need a brake test as well as conversion sign off id imagine...

being you will be very unlikely to get R32 factory brakes passed with a RB25 conversion.

You'll be required to have the R33 brakes fitted i think you might find. (bigger motor/lighter car etc etc)

Engineers the past 18months have been under a lot of pressure, and as such are very fussy, and fair enough too.

They are signing your car off as legal and wont do so if you go with a half baked conversion.

You will still need to obtain a RWC, a VASS certificate doesnt double as a RWC. The are both separate

cheers

just to add - If you have a Type - M R32 which came with 4 pot calipers you'll be able to pass the engineers with them. If not then you'll have to do the r33 brake upgrade.

i had mine done a little while back if u need any more help shoot me a pm.

good luck with it,

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
    • Ha ha ha, so they stopped the bearings spinning on the one you want, but then decided the crank hub should slip instead 😛   Stick to RB, at least you can work on it yourself. And now it doesn't smell of vapour   Also I still believe there's a chance your new flap doesn't "pop", as even though the engine might breath hard, it has a direct path with no restriction to the inlet, which when on boost should pull a bit of suction for you. If you do get pressure in the catch can id be very intrigued. Time to put a boost gauge on it, and a session at the track, then solid cover your vent and do another session
    • Oh nah, S55 doesn't eat bearings, just the crank hub slips lol.
    • When’s the tow ball on the 33 coming? 🙃
    • I welcome any basic question that can help haha. Yes it has 2 unis but the driveshaft is a one piece and the unis are welded without a slip yoke at each end.   What's funny is anytime I've ever had wheel vibrations it's always been in the front so I automatically assume it will lead to steering wheel shake and not chassis vibration. With that being said, I never considered looking at my rear wheel balance... I have doubts though as this wasn't an issue before I pulled the motor and trans but is still very much worth a look. I'll do that tonight after work. Thanks. 
×
×
  • Create New...