R33 Vs R34 Autos

[SHY 33]

Just a query..

Are the 33 & 34 auto's pretty much the same strength & physical measurements ?

I have been toying with the idea of slotting a tiptronic R34 auto into my 33, purely for the tiptronic option. But have no clue whether the R34 boxes are any stronger or weaker than my current R33 auto..

Any takers on this one ? Any rumours anyones heard, or has anyone here already done it & had some results they can throw my way.

please keep the "just get a manual" comments out of this thread, its my cash & my car - so get over it.

Cheers guys.

[HackerX]

Don't know for certain about strength differences, but rumours I've heard is that the 34 box can take more.

Fitting shouldn't be a problem.

You will lose a gear though (4 speed on the 34 box, 5 speed on the 33 box). I believe the reason behind this has to do with strengthing of the belts etc. Perhaps somebody can clarify that though.

[datsqik]

There are so any variations of these nissan boxes its hard to know which is stronger. The r33 comes with either the re4r01a (4 speed) or the re5r01a (5 speed) and the r34's ive seen are the re4r01a but with tiptronic control. The re5r01a's are longer as they have a longer rear extension housing with a extra gear and also have a larger dia output shaft by 2 splines. The all have the same size input shaft but some have an extra speed sensor at the front near the bellhousing which means they have a course spline half way along the small input shaft that the pickup reads from which would reduce the strength somewhat. As far as i know they all use the same single band but there are some variation with clutch sizes and spline counts inside. Ive just finsihed building a couple of re4r01a using the strongest bits from each model of the re4r01a using a SR20det bellhousing, r33 main case with a subaru 2.7 1st gear, the largest size aftermarket clutches and steels, carbon band, s6 rx7 output shaft and rear extension housing (same dia as the re5r01a), the largest planetary sets (cryo treated), all shafts either cryo treated or remade in en26, full manual valve body assembly with a transbrake and billet servo.

[Finny]

Yeah a friend of mine has an R34 GTT, its a 4sp triptronic. He has pretty much killed the box with only stock power and 100,000km. Now it takes for ever to shift gears and you pretty much have to mail it an invite to down gear when you use the triptronic controller.

[datsqik]

The main reason the stocky boxes dont last is that they run low line pressures especially on gear changes. They do this so they have smooth changes but it wears out the clutch packs. By modifying the valve bodies upping the line pressure makes them shift hard with less slip. This can extend the life of these boxes but you really need to start off with one that has good clutch packs before modifying.

[SHY 33]

Ive just finsihed building a re4r01a using a SR20det bellhousing,

R33 main case with a subaru 2.7 1st gear,

the largest size aftermarket clutches and steels,

carbon band,

S6 rx7 output shaft and rear extension housing (same dia as the re5r01a),

the largest planetary sets (cryo treated), all shafts either cryo treated or remade in en26,

full manual valve body assembly with a transbrake and billet servo.

GOD-DAMN DUDE !!

Sounds like you've invested a little more time than a simple weekend sussing out your options & putting the right combo together - thats luto !!

What sort of cooler set-up are you going to pair with that combo ? Stand-alone air cooled, or combo of stock plus an added front mounted air cooler

The r33 comes with either the re4r01a (4 speed) or the re5r01a (5 speed) and the r34's ive seen are the re4r01a but with tiptronic control..

I had no idea a 5 speed was optioned, well there's my new thing i learned for the day. But if theres a good chance the 4 speed is slightly stronger, i'm sticking with it..

So from what i've read, sounds like the tiptronic is essentially the same box as what i have now, only it has an electronic gear selector added. I already assume i'd need the box's computer to go with the 34's tiptronic function.. And a manual valvebody conversion is already on the check list waiting to be ticked off.

This info is good guys, cheers for this. If anyone else has anything more to add then don't be shy.

It's good for what i'm trying to find out & also good for future searches from other members.

[datsqik]

The re4r01a's are going behind sr20det's, one is a 200b and the other a 1600. Both of these cars are drag only with the cooler being mounted at the rear of the car with dedicated fans as there is no room to mount at the front. I am also currently doing a stagea auto but swaping the re4r01a main box for the re4r03a main box with full drag internals and a mating shaft to suit the stagea transfer case.

[Abo Bob]

Don't do it.

The R34 RE4R01A and the one from the R33 are mechanically pretty much the same but the valvebodies and the electronics are totally different. Unless you are really good with car wiring this will be a nightmare. The R34 TCU is a single unit with the ECU so getting them to talk to a stock R33 ECU would certainly be a challenge.

You can manualise the R33 box if you want. Talk to Mike at MV Automatics in Adelaide as he is without a doubt the preeminent expert in this area. Last I spoke to him the shifts were made with an after market shifter like a B&M but if it can be all done electronically now then I don't see why you couldn't buy a tiptronic steering wheel off someone like me who has done a manual conversion and wire up the buttons.

[SHY 33]

Last I spoke to him the shifts were made with an after market shifter like a B&M but if it can be all done electronically now then I don't see why you couldn't buy a tiptronic steering wheel off someone like me who has done a manual conversion and wire up the buttons.

Thats pretty much the end result i was chasing.. An MV valve-bodied/manualised auto with electronic shift function via either steering wheel buttons - or maybe even paddle shift for wank value

[bb-gtst]

Ive just finsihed building a couple of re4r01a using the strongest bits from each model of the re4r01a using a SR20det bellhousing, r33 main case with a subaru 2.7 1st gear, the largest size aftermarket clutches and steels, carbon band, s6 rx7 output shaft and rear extension housing (same dia as the re5r01a), the largest planetary sets (cryo treated), all shafts either cryo treated or remade in en26, full manual valve body assembly with a transbrake and billet servo.

any chance you could let me know the cost, and how much power this will take. as i,ve just upgraded to 360hp (268kw) @ hubs. and am looking to go to nearly 500hp (372kw) next year.

thanks bruce.