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Hey guys, as the topic says, im wanting a reliable r33 gtr responsive street car, good for 300atw, max would be 350kw atw, and was wondering the best way about all thise while the engine is apart. Main goal in mind, is reliability, which is key, something that will take the abuse and keep going, i dont want to keep having to rebuild car over and over again all the time.....

Currently its a stock rb26 with a blown head gasket.....i need to know what others have got in their rb26 rebuilds, and how well it all turned out, and if they had any issues etc.Also, i hear that running the stock turbos on a fresh rebuilt motor is a tool for destruction?....can you guys explain why that is...

parts to get: (that i can think of)

Forged pistons (cp ones?)

arp rod bolts

metal headgasket kit with oil restrictor gallery etc...

stock conrods ok for this amount of power?

what sort of bearings?

N1 oil pump necessary?

water pump?

and a good responsive set of turbos(as i hear the stock ones are time bombs when put on the limit?)

i need to know what items to get, and in which sizes (ie what size headgasket, comp ratio for street etc...)

thanks.

N1 water/oil pump

Forgies

Stock rods - good rod bolts

Usual bottom/top end clean up

Any good motor builder that knows RB's will know the above combo works day in day out.

GT-SS are the turbo choice hands down.

Thats about it. Dont run stock turbos on a built motor. Ceramic dust gets into the piston when the turbo dies.

bye bye piston/rings.

All this is pretty common place info mate, so many RB26 rebuild threads

cheers mate, ive been told it has wiseco pistons already, and yeh ive been reading a whole lot of threads on the topic already.What size headgasket should i buym, and is 9-1 compression too much on these engines???, power goal being 350 at all four, and street driven (thus why i want a higher compression).

Heres what ive listed so far 9that im keen to buy)

ARP head studs, and rod bolts, and main bearing studs

Stock rb26 conrods(with arp bolts)

N1 water/oil pump - where to buy from though?

Std nissan main bearings, nismo big ends...(or maybe acl race main/big ends)

tomei head gasket kit with oil restrictor gallery and exh/int manifold gaskets etc...

things i need advice about:

what type of forged pistons to go for

what size/comp ratio headgasket works best - (will i need to match headgasket with piston sizes?)

HKS-gtss turbos

Thats the plan for the rebuild - what else should i consider in my quest while its opened, and will this be a viable option for 350kw at all four?

thanks in advice ppl

hey mate,

im in your exact same position, with the same engine etc etc.

so far ive found that CP pistons are more popular than the weiseco pistons (among the engine builders etc), so ill be using those.

Also ill be using ACL bearings, a normal water pump (n1's arnt good for daily driving) and a N1 oil pump.

ive been told the stock rods are good for 400rwkw, so ill be keeping those.

Only question is does anyone know where i can find some cheap CP pistons??

steve

Well something caused mine to blow out, which im not aware of yet, im wondering what would have been the cause of it all......whats the std compression on an rb26dett, and is it safe to assume this compression will be fine for upto 350awkw with a stock head gasket, or would a metal tomei 1.5mm be more safe, reliable?, i heard the stock gasket size is 1.2mm, and bore size is 87mm stock??

Edited by nsta

Thanks mate - what are peoples thoughts on the cp pistons???......i think the rods arent needed for my power as im wanting only 350awkw max, but the rings would help...cheap price too....ive heard good things about the cp pistons though...anyone care to share?

i done a search the other day on "forged pistons", it brought up about about 35 pages, and i went through most of them (which had relevent titles) and came to the conclusion that cp are the way to go, just jap and unique auto sell the cp pistons for about $1500, so another $400 on better rods wont make too much diff to the overall budget i dont think, plus it "future proofs" you incase you want more power, i think....

steve

Cool, heres what i was thinking, anything else ill need to reach my power goal after the rebuild, things ill run into maybe would help too:

rb26dett engine

tomei headgasket (still need advice on size/comp ratio) - will cracktest and machine head, comes complete with oil restrictor galley with the kit

car already has wiseco forged pistons from what ive got in receipts (will they still be fine after a blown gasket?)

Arp head studs (expensive but well worth it from what ive heard)

Brand new HKS GT-SS turbo kit (anything need to be modified to get it to bolt up?, will it run on factory computer)

Power FC+Tune

things im thinking of buying if its easily accessible when doing a gasket change:

N1 Oil Pump

Arp Rod bolts (stock gtr conrods handle alot apparently)

We are doing as much as we can ourselves, obviously the gasket and head will be taken away to be crack tested, and machined...., to make for a perfect fit with the gasket.....anyone know what bore size the wiseco pistons will be?

Any other supporting mods ill need to reach my 320awkw power figure? - maybe injectors, fuel pump,. larger intercooler???

Thanks.

The car will be getting stripped today, and head will be sent off to get checked up on(crack tested and all those tests etc...). While i'm at it, i was thinking of getting CP pistons (are they all the one size for rb26?), and eagle rods(again are they all one fitment).....just to future proof my rebuild incase i want more power. I hear of I and H beam rods (which one to get for street car which will be hitting boost alot and high in the rev range, reliability is key).

Do the CP pistons come in different thou sizes?, and would it be best to get the pistons first, and then give it to the recon'ers to bore out if necessary etc...?

Edited by nsta

p.s: would it be okay to run the stock turbos for the next couple of months, while i save for the new ones, as i wont have the $$$ to afford new ones right away.....i would run them at stock or less boost, and wont let them come on aswell....would this be safe, or just wait till i get the new ones on?

thanks.

Are you telling us you want to drive a high HP GTR and you don't want to spend money rebuilding it again? You want to build a high HP GTR on a budget ?? That doesn't happen dude.

If you have almost unlimited budget and you can find an engine builder that will blueprint everything several times then you may get something reliable.

If you don't want to spend money ( lots of it ) then leave it stock but get rid of the stock turbos, replace them with something small and steel wheel ( GTSS are ideal for a stock engine), get a decent clutch and if the drivetrain is in good nick just keep driving it.

If you want 350AWKW , get a new block, N1 at the very least or preferably Nismo GT, a Jap strocker kit , like Tomei, HKS etc..find a good machine shop to do the boring/honing ( give them one piston) preferably with a torque plate and check your new crank to make sure its not bent. Find another good machine shop to service your cyl head, maybe port it a little, supply them with new valve springs, maybe guides and retainers . Finaly you have to find a good assembler to put it together making sure he double checks everything along the way .

Total cost ??? well it will depend on how much you buy the parts and how much time your assembler will spend but at a rough guess including a new pair of turbos, manifolds , dumps, ebc, larger radiator, larger I/cooler, larger injectors , fuel pump , fuel pressure reg, hard I/cooler pipping, a few gauges to monitor everything, oil cooler, new twin plate clutch, new gearbox, leave the front/rear diff ( who knows when one will blow), maybe a larger sump or at the very least sump baffles , I'm sure I have forgotten something ... You will not get it done under $50k if you give the car to someone to do it, evn if you buy parts on the cheap.

How do I know ??? Been there and done that more than once, if you try to cut corners it will cost more , just ask others that have done that .

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