Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not sure if this is the right place to post this question...

I just bought a GTR 33 and on closer looks at it ive found on the A pillar, the ones holding the front window in...

Up the top about an inch from where the roof would start there is a crack right throught the paint on both sides. im not sure what it is from but both sides are identical...

Any ideas what would have caused it?

Anyone else have this problem or something???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199184-crack-in-a-pillers/
Share on other sites

i had exactly the same thing on a nissan patrol i put it down to rough off road driving . i have seen it on hi powered holden v8 monaros hq type caused by the body flexing under heavy load .

i had a friend who was a panel beater reweld and repaint nine on the patrol that fixed it for good

could also be the result of a bad repair job if the car has been in a prang and they have welded a new roof on:-(

Edited by mid life crisis
i had exactly the same thing on a nissan patrol i put it down to rough off road driving . i have seen it on hi powered holden v8 monaros hq type caused by the body flexing under heavy load .

i had a friend who was a panel beater reweld and repaint nine on the patrol that fixed it for good

could also be the result of a bad repair job if the car has been in a prang and they have welded a new roof on:-(

yer bit worried iuts the latter, but doesnt look to be resprayed and cant find anywhere else in the back etc that it has been repaired... not sure what to do... mayb take it to a panel beater and see what they think??

either take it to a panelbeater or get a full vehicle inspection by state roads (http://www.stateroads.com.au/). A panelbeater will hopefully have a paint thickness gauge so they can tell which panels (if any) have been resprayed to cover previous damage. A state roads inspection is a 5 page written report and they will pick up almost everything.

the only way to know for sure is to get an expert to look at it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...