Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

r33 owners will know bout this

on the rear guard theres a 25mm fin that shoots over the tire in the rear guard, i need to delete this or bend it 45deg up cause its sliced my tires.

what to do, can i .........

1) fold it up 45 deg with muliti's? (will that crack the paint)?

2) 4 inch grinder with a 1mm blade and slowly grind it away (if i do this slowly to keep the heat down will this work)

plz let me know which option is better..... 1 or 2

xoxo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199198-r33-rear-guards/
Share on other sites

ok thats all well and good but which of my 2 options is best......

i need peoples opions plz.

neither are good

grinding will make the paint flake, bending by multigrips will also make it look like crap.

heating the panel up with a heat gun and gently massaging with a rubber mallet is better than multigrips if you must do it yourself.

best option in this thread was from user "J'z-R33" - get someone to roll them properly

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199198-r33-rear-guards/#findComment-3552769
Share on other sites

i grinded it today, the 1mm blade was a bit slow so i swiched to a normal grinding blade, the guard is pretty solid and it didnt shake around at all, came up perfectlyi left a 5 mm fin over the tire, and gave it a light file manualy to clean it up....

i winded the tein coilovers down a bit and the tire just pops in under the guard, went for a drive on a bumpy road and itall good.......

grinding is best

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199198-r33-rear-guards/#findComment-3554108
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
paint may not crack straight away, but eventually it will ive been told by several tyre and suspension fitters.

This is correct from what i've heard... sooner or later it will crack due to the pressure put on it, and you will get crack marks... i would be careful and only proceed if you're after a quick fix. otherwise, get a widebody full kit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199198-r33-rear-guards/#findComment-3587860
Share on other sites

Just so you know whoever you are grinding your guards.. You'll need to paint them asap because it will rust, rust will travel and ur car will start peeling and bubbling the paint..

1. Will look like SHIT

2. will degrade the car and its value

3. will reduce the structure strength of the vehicle (but you've already achived this)

So i Suggest you get a paint pen, some masking tape and mask up your exterior paint and then with the paint pen cover the open metal, Spray will prob work better but it will prob cover your exterior.

Seriously get it done.

Edited by DECIM8
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199198-r33-rear-guards/#findComment-3588077
Share on other sites

This is correct from what i've heard... sooner or later it will crack due to the pressure put on it, and you will get crack marks... i would be careful and only proceed if you're after a quick fix. otherwise, get a widebody full kit.

lol

from a quick lip rolling to " widebody full kit"

i have a car that had its guards rolled about 8 years ago now, no cracking, and they are not rusting

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199198-r33-rear-guards/#findComment-3588599
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...