Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks guys, head is off, and big problem, it looks like whoever rebuilt the motor last done it all wrong!, the pistons appear to be hitting the head, and that was confirmed once i showed the reconditioners the head, the block may need to be taken out, but maybe not if the pistons can be removed and re-shimmed to clear the gap.....

What's the best idea from here people?the cylinders have been bored out, dnno how much too though as i didn't have a vernia dial at the time, but i could see the sleeving....

I hear the stock rb26 headgasket is 0.9mm in size?, if my cylinder have been bored out, and the head gets machined, would 1mm headgasket thickness still be ok?or would i be pushing it....

Have alot of work still to do, here i was thinking im all done!...

i dont think this is an job for you anymore..... something is seriously amiss and you need to get it all measured up properly and honestley if you cant get your head around simple head gasket thicknesses your gonna burst a blood vessel figuring out deck height and so forth which all seem to be up the shit in your engine.

for a start pistons cannot be shimmed.... the block should not be sleeved.... and who knows if 1mm is going to be fine now? if the pistons are hitting then either a) wrong pistons fitted or b) wrong rods (unlikely) or c) wrong gasket d) ongoing issue with a warped deck and the head has been machined too much etc.... it all needs to be stripped, dummy assembled and precise measurments made.

on further research, ive noticed alot of people remove the squish area on the head...which is the area where the pistons seemed to have been touching the head itself, no 6 got the worst damge, and the others had minimal, but were nticeable....i was thinking that since the water was chewing away at no.6 it wouldve made things worst than it looks....

Thanks, ve posted a new thread about the squish area...basically it was only piston no.6 that was hitting the squish on the head...very odd as to why this has happened, but it was no.6 piston that let go thus causing the gasket to blow so it kind of makes sense...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. Can someone tell me what brakes(and mainly WHERE) can i buy brakes on R34 GTT? I bought some EBC which SHOULD go on my car(i have GT but it has GTT brakes) but it does not fit, Brakes are "too" small(296mm) Are 310mm be good or? I have 17 inch wheel so no "big boys" but for me driving i just need one that fits and i can get here in EU/Czech.
    • Since winter isn't that harsh anymore in Poland, i will definetely drive it 365 days a year 😉. But if the snow hits i will try it for sure and let U know. Only swap i am planning to do is of course R34 GTR front 😍.
    • Hey. Very valuable information about pitwork, I will pay attention when buying any consumable parts 🙏 As for the carpets - I got a handful of information from nengun, from which it appears that indeed the carpets for the driver's side are OEM. They are not able to show me any pictures due to the long chain of different sales entities but after I place the order, as soon as the goods arrive at the nengun warehouse from which they will send the shipment to me they can send me photos and if my purchase differs from OEM I can immediately return it / cancel the purchase. I think I will give it a try 😉. Of course i'll let you know what's what as soon as i get them P.s. I know the topic is not relevant to the thread, but both nengun and amayama have these SICK 😍 trunk room lamps available. Do you know anyone who ordered them? I need to have one in my car
    • I've managed to find this: Nissan_Stagea_AutechVersion260RS (1).pdf
    • I believe @Duncan has given it a crack at Mt Buller before (in actual race conditions)
×
×
  • Create New...