Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Have NO idea which rating the oct 95 is...

Mafia.

:D

These two little articles put things in perspective regarding Danish petrol.

http://www.mex.dk/uk/vis_nyhed_uk.asp?id=5...yhedsbrev_id=74

http://www.rec.org/REC/Publications/LeadOut/chapter61.html

I’m not sure if we still get MTBE in Australian produced fuels. It seems that the stuff was to be severely limited by pressuring the fuel companies. There was evidence of it being present 4-5 years ago thanks to Woolworths penetrating the fuel market

http://www.waterquality.crc.org.au/hsarch/HS23a.htm

http://www.abc.net.au/science/news/stories/s715002.htm

http://www.smh.com.au/articles/2002/07/10/1026185062263.html

A bit more quick research shows that the Danes use the same standard of octane measurement (RON) as we do. And if 98 is not readily available, then I’d be doing what it takes to eliminate knock that you’d come up against with 95RON and the sort of tune required to deliver the power he’s already got. Water injection sounds good to me. FWIW, best results should be had by integrating WI into the tuning strategy, rather than as an add-on. If you are prepared to give it a go, best results would come from running full load AFR up near 13:1 and give it the ignition timing that it will take. But it will require a properly engineered system to get the results.

Dale makes an excellent point.

Have you looking into a Proper water\methanol injection kit like I am running? Fixed up all of my fuel issues. Then when we finally got 98ron here, it barely made a difference due ot the water meth already doing its job.

The Methanol injector idea sounds ok, but I think you need a purpose built system.

After doing some research on water/Meth injection. It seems that Injecting the meth or water meth too early causes a dip in the power curve due to it basicly putting the fire out in the chambers so be wary of that. Mafia not sure on whether you had these problems or how you have yours set up.

Also on what your trying to set up nissan200sx.dk would that not cause pooling problems in the intake at idle and slow running if the meth inj is running all the time?

After doing some research on water/Meth injection. It seems that Injecting the meth or water meth too early causes a dip in the power curve due to it basicly putting the fire out in the chambers so be wary of that. Mafia not sure on whether you had these problems or how you have yours set up.

I never had these problems, I actually put more water in down low to be able to put more timing in, and managed to get more grunt off the line. Only problem is you use more water so I backed the water off and took the timing out so it wouldn't ping under low load.

my methanol system will be pressure activated, and the methanol injector will only follow the duty cycle of one of the normal injectors. So i have a liniar delivery of the methanol. Will first try my own system out. If it dont works, or is to hard to adjust, because of variations I will look into buying a system. I guess i'll set the pressue activation at around 14 psi. That way I still need to be up in revs before the system activates, and still low enough for advanced timing without det. I hope, otherwise i can adjust at which pressure it should activate.

I think its more cool to build what you can yourself, try different things. Sometimes it works, sometimes it dont, and it can happen it sometimes says BANG. But its my way of learning... hehe. And is so much more satisfactory when it works, when its homemade.

Some say its just a cheap solution, but dont care. I like it. :blink:

Okay... could start out really low, and see how it goes. Thanks.

My old CA18 engine made 427hk with the use of methanol injection. It really helped alot.

On a different note. Nismo 16600-RRR60 injectors, are they the correct resistance for a RB25DET s1? I know they are top feed, std is side feed. But otherwise. Will be making a different fuel rail anyways.

hey mate, I'm still grabbing that ignition map for you too.

Hi. Dont want to press on too much, but any update on this? Got my fuel pump for the methanol system today.

Thank you very much.

Edited by nissan200sx.dk
Its my first attempt at welding alu... its not pretty, but works, and holds together.

Have a different on the drawing board, will be using shorter runners, and a different style plenum.

Thats a very bad design of plenum for even air distribution to all cylinders, as a result you may need to keep the AFR's quite rich for safety. I would get rid of that one as soon as you can. I know you put some hard work into it but, it's not helping you at all. :(

If you can fit the stock plenum somehow then definately change it back. :P

Why is it so bad? :P

The guy I bought my frontcut from, has a corolla 1.6 komp engine built with turbo, same design plenum and no probs at 500hk...

But will be making a different when I get the time..

In my opinion, for that style of inlet manifold, that a pretty trick bit of gear, certainly better than a factory rb26 one. The only way to determine if there is uneven distribution would be to moniter individual exhaust temps/AFR's. The only way i think would be necessary to modify this would be to have a tapered plenum . Nice bit of fabrication though :P

Why is it so bad? :)

The guy I bought my frontcut from, has a corolla 1.6 komp engine built with turbo, same design plenum and no probs at 500hk...

But will be making a different when I get the time..

Have a look at forward facing plenums designed for forced induction engines as you see them in things like the RB26. They taper back accounting for the direction of airflow entry. They are also optimised around volume and a few other things.

Your plenum is a good first fabrication effort in anyones books all the same :P

Adriano,

better than an Rb26 plenum? C'mon mate. Thats just the beer talking. :wacko:

I do have 6 exhaust probes ready to go in... had them in my last manifold, but my meter to get readings didnt work as first thought. :-(Got them From work, 200 AUD each, really fast and precise, can measure up to 1300 degrees. The meter I bought can be set up to display ALOT if different inputs.. If I remember correct the list has around 60 different functions for it.

But am working on a hole different solution in the long run.. Industri PLC with 40 in and outs (got that), need a touch screen, (working on that from work), and just alot of sensors to measure EVERYTHING i can think of. including the exhaust. Can design my own menu´s on the touch screen.

Also working on a pneumatic gearchange, controlled by the PLC... Have all the air cylender for it, but still working on design in Solidworks. Dunno how fast it will change, but hopefully it MAY control the clutch also.

Im in need of time.. Have a different exhasut manifold on the drawing board also, that will get the probes back again, and I can see if there is any issues.

Also has the different intake on the drawingboard... Which will have 6 intake temp probes.

Im gonna put sensors on everything when I get the PLC up and running.

fuel press, Fuel temps, gearbox temp, diff temp, 6 exhaust temp, 6 intake temp, after turbo temp, boost, oil temp, oil press, water temp, water press, AFR, tacho for the turbo, it will also control my methanol... Did I miss anything?

On a NA car I think the plenum has much more to say, on forced, its forced in.. I know there WILL be better or worse designs. But for working and not burning the engine, thes designs is working. So far...

Taper back.. How much has it to say on plenum design then? Anywere I can read up on this?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...