Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone i wasn't 100% sure where to post this but everyone on hear are very good and im from vic also so hear it goes: a few days ago i had a little accident and have a huge dent in the bonnet so im looking for a new one at the moment. just today my dad took the car out and came home saying the engine light is on so i go to start it up and it was really rough the whole car was shaking, it felt like a had a huge v8 that wasnt really running well. so i pulled it in and quickly shut it off. now my problem is would anyone have any ideas what it could be because tomorrow is a public holiday and i got to get to work on wednesday so i was hoping it could be maybe a lose plug that would do it or would it be much worse :blink: .

thanks for replying. ok i have a r34 workshop manual it says how to do a diagnostics check but it really makes no sence to me it says to put the keys in to on but dont start the engine and then to put some wires into something to activate it. i tested my car today and checked all the plugs and stuff and they are fine i started it up and it sounded fine but then the whole car starts vibrating really badly and a very strong smell of fuel which could be normal cause it hadnt been started up for a day and a half. its killing me cause im too scared to drive it somewhere in case it is serious or if its just coilpacks.

im from sunbury but i think most people live on the other side of melbourne. it felt like the more the revs slowly dropped the more vibration throughout the entire car. im still thinking coilpacks from what i have read but not 100% sure.

ok guys hear is an update. i just started my car this morning and there was no engine light and it was fine, after a bit i revved it a little then revved it to about 5000 and it dropped normally but then the light came on again but still seemed to idle this time ok without the bad vibration but it did smell really bad of fuel i dont know if this is normal for starting it up in the morning but it was bad.

thanks for your answer i had a feeling it might be but it threw me off that it would vibrate badly and run roughly but then again i suppose they could do that too. plus my car was driving on that really hot day on monday so that could have cooked them as well.

the vibration is the fact that one or more coils/cylinders is not firing at all.....to find out which ones are the culprits let the car idle(when its playing up) and take the injector wires off one by one.....you will find that there will be ones that eitheir make the car stall(the good ones) and one's that dont make a diffrence (the evil ones)

Hey... I've also got a R34 and i had the same problem as you... engine light, SLIP and TCS OFF light would all come on and the car would be shaking.. sometimes the shaking would go away and the lights would stay on.. very very intermittant... and yes it was the coil packs

Now got some splitfires in there and runs perfect :O

im not stupid i know how to look after my car. i have only had it for about 3 months and it had a full service before i picked it up, so im pretty sure its fine, and i do check my oil frequently and coolant and all the rest.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity.
    • 100% the factory sender is tapered, that is how it seals (well, that and teflon paste or tape)
    • Thanks folks - I've saved a few links and I'll have to think of potential cable/adapters/buying fittings. First step will be seeing if I can turn the curren abortion of a port into something usable, then get all BSPT'y on it. I did attempt to look at the OEM sender male end to see if it IS tapered because as mentioned you should be able to tell by looking at it... well, I don't know if I can. If I had to guess it looks like *maybe* 0.25 of a mm skinnier at the bottom of the thread compared to where the thread starts. So if it is tapered it's pretty slight - Or all the examples of BSPT vs BSPP are exaggerated for effect in their taper size.
    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
×
×
  • Create New...