Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Make: 1990 r32

Model: GTR

Milage: 102,000 body under 5,000ks engine

Transmission: 5sd Manual

Colour: Gunmetal Grey

Location: Brisbane

Complied? Yes

RWC supplied? No

Currently registered? No

Price: $15,000

Contact: James

Comments / Modifications:

r32 gtr rwd only

18" Impul dish rims with good tyres

Bilstein height adjustable shocks all around

New ball joints/cvs

New windscreen

Hicas complelety removed with lock bar

N1 front bar

Nismo short shifter

Kendwood mp3 with new 6.5 splits front top of the line 6x9 pioneer rear

Engine:

Recently rebuilt rb30dett

standard gtr turbos

rb25de non turbo pistons (10:1 comp)

ACL racing bearings

Nismo 555cc injectors

Head fully rebuilt receipts for $1200

Butterflies rebuilt

Latest model Apexi Power-fc

3.5" exhaust receipts for $3000, has the best of everything

Made 220rwkw on 8psi. Has to go back to Mercury motorsport to be road tuned, you will not have to pay for this. At the moment all that is needed for road worthy is a new headlight plug, and a parker bulb. Otherwise I believe it should pass.

It also needs the front quater panels painted and the front bar.

Reason for selling is I have lost my license for quite a long time, and I am heading overseas to work anyway, otherwise I would not be selling as this is my pride and joy.

Price is $17,000. I have spent will in excess of that just on doing things well. The car is very nice to drive but at the moment is running poorly due to tune. I am not interested in spending any more time on it as I have done plenty of that over the last 3 years.

Any questions please ask.

p1000230oq9.jpg

p1000231rg3.jpg

p1000235ld1.jpg

p1000241zx5.jpg

Edited by James_03
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199907-r32-gtr-rb30dett-rwd-15000/
Share on other sites

what sort of head are you running? who done this rescent rebuild?

Considering the fact that its an r32 GTR and its standard engine is an rb26dett, of which the head fits up directly except for stud redrills to the rb30 block i am going to take a wild guess here >.< and says that its a r32 rb26dett gtr head sitting on top of the rb30 block.

RWD... Why, who does that? Its a GTR

Why does it matter to you? You obviously don't want to buy the car so it shouldn't be an issue. Even if you did want to buy the car the laser cut adapter plates are available so weigh up the cost of building an rb30dett against buying an adapter plate, im sure you will find there is a big difference.

Goodluck with the sale of the car mate, absolute bargain for the price!

Edited by DORIFUTO_The Future

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...