Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys. Just a quick one. In the process of tidying/ polishing the engine bay. Inc Plemum, crossover pipe, rocker covers, brackets. etc etc etc.

I have most of it all sanded back ready to polish. Using a meguires (sp?) metal polish. (This is the first time ive ever really tried bring metal to a shine. so newb here) When I attack it with the polish heaps of black is coming off. Now i relise this is normal. But if i keep rubbing, add more polish, keep rubbing etc etc etc. Does the black ever STOP coming off. i.e once you reach a good shine. Ive spent a couple of hours on the crossover pipe and it just seems that there is No end as everytime i hit it with more polish all the black comes back. haha im sure that makes sence.

Just after the experienced opinion of someone as to the most effective way of getting that final stage of actually bringing out the mirror finish (odviously im using rags and a metal polish).

Cheers for any help

Luke...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200358-polishing/
Share on other sites

i think it was crave he posted up a whole instruction manual all about this will try to find it for ya..

HAVE A READ THRU THIS

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Al...ng-t177231.html

Edited by r33cruiser
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200358-polishing/#findComment-3565327
Share on other sites

I have most of it all sanded back ready to polish.

I think maybe this is your issue. Getting to the final completed, polished end isn't about using the polishing wheel; 95% of the work is in the wet and dry. When you say, "sanded back" is it to at least 800grit? 1000 / 1200 would be better.

Could also be the buffing compound, some sticks to the metal a little more then others and throws a lot of that black gaul.

Good luck

Edited by GeeTR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200358-polishing/#findComment-3570509
Share on other sites

Basically. used the sanding wheels until all the rough stuff was gone. then jumped to a couple of different sandpapers (using wet), upto 800. upto where i am now. No visible scuff marks/unevenness. After playing around with the polish it looks like its gonna finish up well. except that i cant seem to get true polished look because of all the black "gaul" as you put it. Trying to get it ready for a show and shine on Aus day. At this stage the crossover pipe, and rocker covers, turbo heat shield (this came up pretty good) are done to what my opinion is the final buff and shine stage with the polish.

Hmm. A couple of weeks to go. Totally not gonna be ready in time. haha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200358-polishing/#findComment-3572208
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...