Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If I disconnect the battery etc I'm going to have to reconfigure the RSM, the ttimer, the EBC, the stereo, the clock, etc so how can I extract the error codes without doing the battery thing.

My R33 had the old 2 wire in grey connector trick that worked a treat, but there's nothing I can see in the fuse area that looks like that... HELP!

I have searched for over an hour without much luck. Have downloaded all the english stagea fuse info etc.

I assume it's similar for R34 owners!?!

Anyone!

Ta...

yes, you can use the paper clip method, bottom left 2, marked in red.

Maybe your harness is unclipped and hidden somewhere around the fuse box.

post-780-1199763143_thumb.jpg

Edited by chook
  • 1 month later...
  • 4 months later...

Are these the codes for the R34?

Could not find them when searching this forum... but had downloaded a Skyline manual pdf a few days ago - are these right?

ECU Diagnostic Codes

11 Crankshaft position sensor

12 MAF sensor circuit (air flow meter)

13 Coolant temperature circuit

14 Vehicle speed sensor circuit

21 Ignition circuit

31 ECU (ouch!)

34 Knock sensor

43 Throttle position circuit

45 Injector leak

51 Ignition circuit

54 Auto signal to ECU

55 All OK

Appears my car is overly optomistic - thinks nothing is wrong... I get 55 all ok!

But my car once warm has been idling like crap (rough - car shudders randomly - possibly missfiring), and recently started to miss fire even when reved over 1200 rpm (prior to this it could "idle" fine if I kept her over 1200rpm).

Very rarely it will back fire when changing from 2nd to third...

I have changed the spark plugs and the O2 sensor...

change the oil and filter and run a tank with some injector cleaner...

As this problem only shows up once the engine is warm - not sure what to put it down to? temp sensor?

AFM?

Coils?

blocked exhaust?

fuel filter?

injectors?

Australia's shitty fuel?

My mixture appears to be running rich (not sure if this is due to the missfiring or something else as the O2 sensor was changed - and when doing so it was covered in black soot. Carbon.

As the O2 sensor seems to be the main part in the system that is supposed to regulate the fuel misture I am at a loss as to how to lean it out??

My thread is here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/fi...t-p3938115.html

just need to work your way through, get your injectors ultrasonically cleaned, new fuel filter, new coolant sensor (changed mine recently from Nissan),O2 sensor (bosch EL falcon), splitfires, new plugs.

Sounds like a spark or injector issue, possibly AFM, doubt it would be O2 sensor. Most/all of this stuff should be changed when you get the car anyway considering age of car.

http://www.scmotorsports.ca/public/skyline...service_man.pdf

Reason for suspecting O2 initially is my poor fuel economy and the rich mixture etc...

So you used Bosch EL Flacon sensor? I used the NGK one that is for the R33...? did I do wrong.

NGK / NTK OZA395-E2 $85.80

Do you know the part number for the fuel filter?

The coolant sensor I take is a temp sensor? might be my next thing to check (part number?)

Any idea how much it costs to ultrasonically clean the injectors?

Again remember this only happens when the engine is warm so - not sure if alot of the above applies...

dead knock sensor would have no effect, it would just prevent your timing from retarding if you were knocking. O2 sensor is fine. There are 2 sensors for temp, coolant and temperature(gauge), you want coolant, i can post part # later tonight. Fuel filter, Z201 or i use a larger 300zx one Z202, larger and cheaper. Fuel filter wont be your prob though, but good to change it if you havnt already.

Prob leave injectors until later if ever if it is temperature related, more likely to be coils or plugs with consideration to coolant sensor, AFM if that doesnt work.

Running rich & idling roughly sounds like your either getting too much fuel or too little air so I'd personally be checking if you have a leak in the intake somewhere (it's the cheapest test). Loose clamps, disconnected vacuum line or split hose would be the likely causes or a crack in the intercooler core could do it to.

To test everything, just mix up a 50:50 mix of dish washing liquid & water & paint it on all the hoses & connections (& any thing else that you consider suspect) whilst the car is idling. If you get bubbles then there is a leak.

If you don't find anything then I would start looking at a fuel issue.

yeah may have to try that I idled for a long while the other day though - but never really saw the fault - but the temp outside was 18+ so it really does seem to only get bad below 13 degrees...

anyway - with my head in the engine bay - there did seem to be a just detectable hiss noise to the left of the main engine area - between the main body and the side part to the left where the air and a fair few hoses go... not sure what that part of the engine is called...

Not sure if there is a true leak or hiss or if it just sounds like it due to the shape of the area of that engine making or creating an almost sea shell effect funnelling other engine noise through...

alright - seeing as I have a consult cable - but been too lazy to work out the wiring for it - I am going to do this method

ok - so I see the pins I need to short

then I Am guessing you look at the check engine light - and I also presume that its one set of flashes - a break - then the 2nd set of flashes - to give you your 2 digit code right?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...