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Rda Rotor (& Ebc Pads) Group Buy Is Back In 2008!


rs73

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Hey Rianto,

Just wanted to say thanks for organising the group buy. I got my rotors today! look awsum.. I want to chuck them on tommorow... but need to get some new pads... I hope these slotted get rid of my horrible squeal!!

just outta curiosity... could you give me a pm for the pads aswell...

otherwise.. i am a poor bastard being a uni student and all.. which one would you advise out of these...

bendix general, ultimate, qfm premium... or any other ones you can get around the auto stores... Im pretty sure they are all rubbish...just want to know if any are slightly better to go with these slotted rotors..

oh and one more thing.. to clean off the oil on the new rotors... degs??

Kind regards,

Adam

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Swapping rotors alone may not solve noise problem. noise are mostly caused by uneven surface btwn rotors and pads, they get worse as the rotors/pads gets older and becomes uneven.

Other factor is bad install. I had people kept complaining it's their brand new pads and rotors that caused the noise but when their car finally get looked at by a real experienced brake mechanics, a simple take off and re-fit, with no additional of any brake goos, the noise just gone. If you fit new pads to old rotors, make sure the old rotors surface is checked and machined if there are grooves on the old rotors.

Believe it or not there are lots of 'dodgy' backyard brake install that could have caused the noise. Of course there are cases where some unknown chinese brand pads or rotors on ebay are the real culprit because you just don't know where they are made and whether the manufacturer made them with strict standards. All RDA rotors & EBC pads (UK) are manufactured to ISO standard and very unlikely it is the failing component.

Make sure you clean the rotors nicely before putting it on. a natural mineral turpentine (avoid very harsh chemical) mgiht work, with some old rags - lots of old rags perhaps :P that's how I cleaned mine. If not, then the oil will slowly burns away everytime you brake and a horrible smell and smoke might come out.

I'll pm you about the pads sometime tonight... I got a lot on at work today.

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Thanks for the advise guys,

I got the standard rotors machined, bought all the types of pads you can get at bursons etc... bought the goo.. all still squealing... went to brakes plus in burwood.. they gave me qfm pads and professionally installed em.. ( i watched what they were doing) - everything the same as me......they were ok for the first month.. now they are just shocking...

apparently the guys there said the rotors kept glazing over??? due to me being really light on the brakes about 95% of the time... i thought that was a load of crap cuz isnt it better to be light on the brakes?

if i were to get some pads tonight from a car parts place... any reccommendations?

i await ur pm.... :(

Thanks,

Adam

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apparently the guys there said the rotors kept glazing over??? due to me being really light on the brakes about 95% of the time... i thought that was a load of crap cuz isnt it better to be light on the brakes?

if i were to get some pads tonight from a car parts place... any reccommendations?

i await ur pm.... :P

Thanks,

Adam

During bedding in new rotors, the process sometimes need to be reasonably 'violent', involving a few hard stops from 60-80km/h, followed by a few series of mild braking, then a few hard braking again. that should remove any residues sittin' on top of the rotor surface.

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I was so impressed with the group buy that I decided to write a guide on how to install your new rotors:

Tools needed:

- Rubber Mallet

- Pliers

- Sockets (22mm and 12mm)

- breaker bar may be required

- Hand cleaner (trust me here!)

- Brake Cleaner

- Flat head screw driver

BrakeRotor8.jpg

Firstly jack the car up and remove the rims

BrakeRotor11.jpg

Remove break pad wire at back of caliper. Surprisingly this can be tough. Might need a bit of plier action!

BrakeRotor12.jpg

Tap out pad pins from behind the caliper with mallet.

BrakeRotor13.jpg

This will then allow the Pads to be removed via the top of the caliper.

BrakeRotor.jpg

With the pads removed, now unscrew the 2 bolts holding the brake line bracket in place.

BrakeRotor3.jpg

Then (here you might need a breaker bar) undo the two 22mm bolts that hold the caliper on.

BrakeRotor2.jpg

The caliper should now be loose and you can remove it. I found a bucket around the same height that I could rest it on. This saves having to remove the brake lines.

BrakeRotor4.jpg

With the caliper off, the rotor should come loose on its own. Might need a hammer with the mallet or just screw in a bolt as shown below:

BrakeRotor1.jpg

This is the comparison between the old and new rotor. Nice!

BrakeRotor5.jpg

While the rotor is off, this is a good opportunity to use rust converter on the hub section. This should help the rotor come off cleaner next time too for machining or replacement.

BrakeRotor6.jpg

Put the new rotor on and screw in 2 of the wheel nuts to hold it in place.

BrakeRotor7.jpg

Reverse the above process to get the caliper back on.

BrakeRotor9.jpg

Any questions feel free to PM me.

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