Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The car landed in April 2005 and was complianced by Carizma. I am the first owner in Australia. I Imported the car through imports101. This car has always been very reliable, and the only problem I ever had was with the original RB20DET engine, which dropped a cylinder. At the time I was quite annoyed, but it gave me a reason to put in an RB25DET!

All the necessary engine conversion work was done by Roshan at Driftline Racing. No corners were cut, and i ensured everything was done as well as it could have been.

I have done a few track days in this car, and has never really given me any problems, besides overheating when i first got the new engine. So I put a dual core radiator in, and it solved the problem.

The Rear seats, Carpet and sound deadening have been removed and the entire floor has been painted matt black. This was done in May 2007 this year. At the same time, I had the majority of the car Re Sprayed to freshen it up when i put the Type-m kit on.

The Engine and gearbox came out of a R33 Series 2 GTS-t front cut.

The car has had a brand new Exedy heavy duty clutch fitted. I have a new Nismo 2 Way which is getting installed within the week.

I do have all the original interior, carpet, etc which will go with the car :P

These days I don’t drive the car much so its time for it to be sold and put to better use by someone else.

Kilometres: 65,000 (Engine swap was done at 49,000)

Complianced: Yes

Registered: Yes, Until April 28th 2008

Transmission: 5 speed Manual

Engine: 6 cylinder RB25DET Turbo 2.5L

Modifications:

***ENGINE***

RB25DET Engine

Greddy Intercooler and Piping

Dual core Radiator

Twin Davis Craig Thermo Fans

Greddy Oil Catch Can

Custom 3 Inch Exhaust w/High Flow Cat

Z32 AFM

Dr Drift Boost Controller

GTR Fuel Pump

Pod Filter

***ECU***

Power FC with Hand Controller

Tuned by Dr Drift

***DRIVE TRAIN***

RB25DET Gear Box

Custom R32/R33 Tailshaft

NEW Nismo 2 way

New Exedy Heavy Duty Clutch

Tomei Electronic Hicas Lock System

***SUSPENSION + BRAKES***

HKS Hypermax Suspension

Cusco Adjustable Castor Rods

Cusco Front and Rear Sway Bars

Cusco Front and Rear Strut Braces

***EXTERIOR***

R32 GTR Wheels

Vertex Front Bar

Type-m Side skirts and rear bar

Flared rear guards (wider than usual)

ReSpray in Custom Gold

R32 GTR Black Bonnet

***INTERIOR + ENTERTAINMENT***

MOMO “RACE” Steering Wheel

Bride Brix II Seat

2 HKS Water Temp Gauge

HKS Eng Temp Gauge

Pivot Full Auto Turbo timer

Immobiliser (Playing up, may as well throw it out the window!)

Producing a SAFE 210RWKW @ Dr Drift

$16,000

Oppen to offers

Contact Troy...

[email protected] (Also for MSN)

0409875864

Car is Currently located 1hr from CBD

Will take some more pics tomorrow and put them up 

sky8.jpg

picture 1

picture 2

picture 3

picture 4

picture 5

picture 6

picture 7

****************************UPDATE**********************************

Sorry these pics arent so great.. only got camera phone atm!

pic2.jpg

pic3.jpg

pic6.jpg

pic8.jpg

MORE pics

click here

click here

click here

click here

Edited by Prospector
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/201357-r32-gts-t-rb25det-pics-updated/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

unfortunately i have had a delay on the diff...

If anyone wants to buy the car without the new diff, (still has a kinda working 2 way nismo)

Then i can work out a price, contact me

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...