Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am considering respraying my totally white rims to gun metal. Anyone done it? Is it a home job or did you get it done professionally?

If so can anyone suggest a location in Sydney to get this done? How much would it cost too?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202027-tips-on-respraying-rims/
Share on other sites

I am considering respraying my totally white rims to gun metal. Anyone done it? Is it a home job or did you get it done professionally?

If so can anyone suggest a location in Sydney to get this done? How much would it cost too?

get them sandblasted then powdercoated....will be more durable than paint

I love my rims but they are fairly damaged at the moment - I want to get them resprayed gun metal too - I'd prefer to get a professional to do it, anyone got a good place in Melbourne?

I am considering respraying my totally white rims to gun metal. Anyone done it? Is it a home job or did you get it done professionally?

If so can anyone suggest a location in Sydney to get this done? How much would it cost too?

have a chat to Magman in punchbowl, see what he can offer you

if not, you can go to the local commercial powdercoaters and ask for a quote - only shame about them is the turn around time can be fairly long.

im hoping to be able to offer this service within the month as i build a new curing oven, as per my Signature

for melb, get thomastown sand blasting to blast them, bout 25 a rim, and then northern powder coating, bout 30 a rim to powder coat for ya. i gt my stockies done in a high gloss white, cost me 180 all up cos i got sand blasting to send them for powder coat and they get a discount better than i could get.

for melb, get thomastown sand blasting to blast them, bout 25 a rim, and then northern powder coating, bout 30 a rim to powder coat for ya. i gt my stockies done in a high gloss white, cost me 180 all up cos i got sand blasting to send them for powder coat and they get a discount better than i could get.

Wow, that's a cheap alternative to buying new rims for sure... you know how it is, right - some times you just love your rims, it gives your car that "Me" look and you just don't want to change them but wanna fix them and get them powder-coated etc.

So, step one - obviously get myself another set of rims/tyres right and remove the current ones - bring them to Northern Sand Blasting to get them to blast my rims free of rust and stretches etc....

Then step two - then get Norther Sand Blasting to send my rims to Northern Powder Coating to get them powder coated gloss black?

So Norther Thomastown Blasting are: http://www.sandblast.com.au/

And Norther Powder Coasting are: http://www.powder-coating.com.au/services.htm

Is the above correct?

Also, do I have to take my rims off? I'd prefer to drop my car off to them, and then they hoist it up etc whilst they get my rims down then put them together again - is this possible?

Thanks,

they arent mechanics or tyre fitters remember... they are sandblasters and powder coaters..

they prob wont have a hoist, they wont have a tyre fitting machine to remove the tyres off the rims....

you will have to get that done, and then just drop the rims themselves off

it wont be a one day turn around thing either....

Edited by trism
they arent mechanics or tyre fitters remember... they are sandblasters and powder coaters..

they prob wont have a hoist, they wont have a tyre fitting machine to remove the tyres off the rims....

you will have to get that done, and then just drop the rims themselves off

it wont be a one day turn around thing either....

Thanks buddy, you've answered my questions.

Never done this stuff before so it's all a steep learning curve.

Ok, so I'll have to get a set of new temp rims for my car to sit on now... bugger... better do this first before even considering getting them powder coated. Thanks.

a) find a set of rims to run around with for 2-3days.

b) drop rims off (no tyres) to thomastown sand blasting (ur website is the correct place)

c) pick rims up after about 3-4hours usually or ask them to have the rims taken to powder coater

d) drop rims at northern powdercoating, wrong place u got on the link, they are about 15 places further down commercial drive, 2 secs from thomo sand blasting.

e) pick up rims from powdercoat next day and put tyres on. (if sand blaster gave it to powder coat then pick up will be from sand blaster so u can pay him)

just a quick thing too, any centres caps will need to be removed too, sand blasting will destroy anything that isnt metal. at the same time the powder coating place will ggive u a can of touch up for centre caps when u get ur rims, if its one of their colours. gloss black would be.

Edited by cheez

if you have gutter rash before you get this done you will have gutter rash marks in the powdercoat afterwards as well... but not as noticeable.

You can get a wheel repairer put the rims on a lathe to get the marks machined out depending on rim metal type. come up looking new after that.

a) find a set of rims to run around with for 2-3days.

b) drop rims off (no tyres) to thomastown sand blasting (ur website is the correct place)

c) pick rims up after about 3-4hours usually or ask them to have the rims taken to powder coater

d) drop rims at northern powdercoating, wrong place u got on the link, they are about 15 places further down commercial drive, 2 secs from thomo sand blasting.

e) pick up rims from powdercoat next day and put tyres on. (if sand blaster gave it to powder coat then pick up will be from sand blaster so u can pay him)

just a quick thing too, any centres caps will need to be removed too, sand blasting will destroy anything that isnt metal. at the same time the powder coating place will ggive u a can of touch up for centre caps when u get ur rims, if its one of their colours. gloss black would be.

I see... I see.... thanks for your time and help mate... that means I'll now have to source an old pair of stockies or something...

I guess it's fairly easy then, I might just drop them off at that sandblasting place and ask them to do the rest for me - I'll give them a week and I'll come pick up the rims the next week - I guess....

Now with the powder coating - how long do they last? I mean, I'm not after a life time of endurance, but at least 3 years?

Cheers mate.

if you have gutter rash before you get this done you will have gutter rash marks in the powdercoat afterwards as well... but not as noticeable.

You can get a wheel repairer put the rims on a lathe to get the marks machined out depending on rim metal type. come up looking new after that.

I see... yeah, I suppose if I get them fixed then there's no need for repainting... you got any good places to recommend here in Melbourne mate?

hey i resprayed my rims gave them a 800 wet sand sanded out all the chips and a coat of wet on wet primer 4 coats of silver and 3 coats of clear they tured out good just resprayed my car blue pearl and put a cf bonnetpost-43842-1200826934_thumb.jpg :)

hey i resprayed my rims gave them a 800 wet sand sanded out all the chips and a coat of wet on wet primer 4 coats of silver and 3 coats of clear they tured out good just resprayed my car blue pearl and put a cf bonnetpost-43842-1200826934_thumb.jpg :)

Nice - clean, simple and tough-looking - I like your style buddy.

Cheers for the info.

Well, just an update for everyone - I got myself a new set of 18" rims today (of another SAU member) so I guess when I get a bit of time, I will look at trying to get my current rims fixed and I've always wanted black rims, so I will powdercoat mine black soon.

Cheers,

Kevin

Over near the racecourse there is a small industrial area, there is a wheel repairer there and in the next street there is a powdercoat place, he does quite large stuff usually but will do wheels for you and blast them as well I think, don't quote me on the sandblasting though, can't think of the names I usually just visit them, I got the contact of the wheel repairer from Tyres n more at West Gosford...

central coast, wheel repair, in gibbens rd, found that in google by searching "wheel repair" central coast....

another google...

Priority Powder Coating

- maps.google.com.au

13 Reliance Dr, Tuggerah, NSW - (02) 4355 1666

Another search this time from CCMC... this is the same place I mentioned above... I've spoken to the guy and got a quote of about $50 perwheel from memory

I've seen a sign on Greive Cl in West Gosford that says "Powdercoating" with an arrow that seems to go nowhere? I've also seen once or twice they've actually had a big sign out saying "Powder Coating" with a phone number too. I've never gotten the number though sad.gif. I think it's some kind of fencing place? All color bond/metal fencing etc. is powder coated, so I'm assuming this fencing company offers powder coating too?

Edited by 75coupe

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...