Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

did the aac valve clean and reset idle, but still havin a few probs.

the stalling at lights has now all but gone, so result there.

but the idle still hunts, between say 700 rpm and 800rpm? according to the power fc hand commander

seems worse when lights are on.

is this hunting worse with other owners cars, or about the same and i've not fixed the problem?

does anyone have any ideas?

all help greatly appreciated and will mean less dents in car :(

thanks for looking

I think it is quite normal that the idle will vary slightly. It's not really noticeable when watching the tacho, but when you see numbers changing, then it becomes obvious.

The fact that it is worse when the lights are on - which means the engine is under more load trying to drive the alternator - suggests a possible problem with an aging battery.

I think it is quite normal that the idle will vary slightly. It's not really noticeable when watching the tacho, but when you see numbers changing, then it becomes obvious.

The fact that it is worse when the lights are on - which means the engine is under more load trying to drive the alternator - suggests a possible problem with an aging battery.

Thanks, i have been thinking perhaps battery or alternator, just dont wanna go spending a load of cash on bits that are ok, battery has been in car for the three yrs i've had it, so maybe time to change?

also have hks turbo timer fitted which reads voltage, seems to vary quickly (3 times a second or more) between 14.2 volts and 13.78 ish, would this point to a duff battery?

thanks again for the info m8 :D

i cleaned my afm and acc valve aswell..

but now no stalling

no hunting wen car temp is normal..

the only problem..now is...

it hunts wen cold..

wen i start the car on in the morin it pretty much sits on 500rpm and loks and feels lik it gona stall

it like my cold air idle valve needs a clean..

has any1 cleaned that??

but wen at the lights or sopping it starts hunting

but wen it hits normal car temp..

its complete stops

nothing!!

any ideas..

i cleaned my afm and acc valve aswell..

but now no stalling

no hunting wen car temp is normal..

the only problem..now is...

it hunts wen cold..

wen i start the car on in the morin it pretty much sits on 500rpm and loks and feels lik it gona stall

it like my cold air idle valve needs a clean..

has any1 cleaned that??

but wen at the lights or sopping it starts hunting

but wen it hits normal car temp..

its complete stops

nothing!!

any ideas..

not sure about the hunting when cold, mine still is ok when cold, someone must know tho' ??????

any ideas folks

Is it just when its cold? Ive heard unless its really well/extensively tuned, alot of cars with PFCs have a poor cold idle which is one of the reasons why people wish to retain original ecu and have it chipped (to keep cold tune) or add a piggyback

Edited by Jmaac
  • 2 weeks later...

i have got an power-fc...lol

yet anyways..

but i do u a apexi neo controller..

could this b why?

its hell weird..only wen cold does it hunt..

other than that its perfect ay..

plus i got an atmo bov too..

but i dont think that could b the issue..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...