Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item:

X-Force Dump & Engine Pipe - Nissan RB20 & RB25

3 inch Mild Steel - Suit Skyline R32/R33 GTS-T

Age:

Less than 5,000km

Condition:

Perfect working order

Price:

$120

SOLD

To Fit: (What car)

HCR32

ECR33

Location:

Melbourne, south eastern suburbs

Contact:

PM or call/SMS 0416 623 381

Comments:

I have an XFORCE 3" mild steel dump/front pipe for sale.

It is the unique 1 style design so less joins and less leaks! Upgrading to a different setup so no longer needed.

Bolts straight up to your stock turbo with no issues and will fit R32 & R33. Also bolts on to your standard cat so there is no issues with running a standard cat and cat back exhaust with this dump/front pipe.

Its barely used, less than 5,000km. Has slight scratching from normal use but no holes/dents or damage!

Retails for $195 at Just Jap and was originally purchased brand new from Just Jap.

Any questions, feel free to ask.

:)

rbdumpfrontmild.jpg

Edited by abu
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202277-x-force-dump-front-pipe/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (Rb25det intake manifold) I’m having a hell of a time trying to find the full part or part number of this coolant hardline so far I was given these (Below) but they aren’t what I’m looking for and was told it’s the IAR or aac valve but that doesn’t seem to be it either. If someone could point me in the right direction it’d be greatly appreciated. Or if anyone has it for sale that’d be great too. I have recently purchased a greddy manifold and I can’t seem to find my old one to pull it off.  (Front Heater Return / Water Pipe (under intake): Primary part: 14053‑21U10 (front return pipe assembly for R33/R34 RB25DET) Alternative listing: 14053‑21U00 (same pipe, sometimes interchangeably referenced)   Heater Feed Pipe: Listed as 14075‑04U00 or feed-related variant 14053‑AG500)    
    • This sounds cool. But, as per usual, anything really complicated like that, that I take on, constitutes a steep learning curve that I never actually "learn". I just get it working, install it and start using it. Then, when it breaks a few months later, I've got no memory of what I did, how I did it, or even the bloody IP address I gave it. I'm having more or less exactly that problem right now. My Proxmox machine was discovered to be non-responsive, and the VMs on it were ditto. Power cycle it to a stream of loud Dell beep codes - which was unpopular at midnight, I can tell you. Move it to the lounge room so I can HDMI it to the TV for a screen, see the boot messages complaining about the /PVE/data having all sorts of LVM problems, saying it needs to be fixed manually. And I'm like....great. How am I going to work out what I need to do? At least it wasn't the stupid Silicon Power SSD shat itself. Mental note for all readers - DO NOT BUY SP SSDS! They are shit. I have had one take out an entire VM setup already, and this one could have done the same. Maybe it actually has. Cheap Chinesium shitbaskets. I won't cheap out again, even on play projects with no budget. Because my time budget having to fix shit is worth far more than the cost of proper parts.
    • I do typically agree. These days even the screens most people use have more of a boot time than the main device. However, I've seen an interesting use of the RPi in vehicle, however it involves effectively building your own OS and MBR, as then it boots up exceptionally quickly, as you don't have everything needing to start up, and you can then also run it up as an RTOS, while still having more compute than an Android can give for things like display, and processing. A very huge task that would be though for Duncan, I'm not sure that's his skill set (or Arduino programming and wiring) ha ha. If end goal is definitely just water cooling, Arduino would be the simpler setup especially for a rookie. If he wants extra display stuff though, bashing some code in Python on an RPi may be the better result for both systems.   Unfortunately the new device I'm building at work which runs a display, is too slow of a display for dashboard style purposes. More extreme low power, update only a couple of times a day type system
    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
×
×
  • Create New...