Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got:

Full RB20 manual Conversion kit with heavy duty clutch (80%) life. gearbox is a freshly rebuilt only done 2000kms with reciepts. SOLD

RB20 Motor bare, just been serviced, never misses a beat SOLD

with power steer, alternator, ac compresser n all that stuff SOLD

with ecu and loom plus stuff mentioned above SOLD

RB20 ECU and loom SOLD

R32 Front seats, perfect conditon $200 pair firm.

R32 rear seat, perfect condition $75

or $250 for front and rear.

Front right quarter panel, white, great condition $200 neg.

Factory R32 Sunroof, NO rust, NO leaks, tinted glass< with everything included $1500 neg. (can be seen working)

R32 Drivers Door, white, perfect condition $300 with all switches and motors included (glass is tinted)

R32 Crash pad, no rips $100 firm

R32 Tail lights, white $80 each or $140 for the pair firm

R32 bootlid, with GTS-T M-Spec spoiler, perfect condition, white $150 neg.

Rear window, darkest legal tint, no cracks $300 neg. SOLD

Drivers rear quarter window, tinted, no cracks, hard to find, $300 firm

Rear bumper, GTS-T M-Spec, white $80 firm

Kenwood Double din CD player with built in equilizer, plays CD and Minidisk $150 neg.

R32 M-Spec Front Calipers and big brakes with new bendix pads $400 neg.

or as a 5 stud conversion incl. hubs $ 600 neg.

R32 GTS-T M-Spec rear brakes with new pads $ 400 neg.

or as a 5 stud conv. for 180sx, s13, a31 $500 neg.

A31 Cefiro Rear cradle, perfect for deleting hicas from R32, direct bolt in $500 neg.

Complete Airconditioning system $500 (includes pipes, condenser and eveything u need for it to work)

lots of other minor stuff for sale. Reply if there is anything u need but not mentioned here and i will see if i have it.

If interested in anything and want photos, just ask and they will be put up within 24 hours.

No prices will be discussed in open forum pm me if you want to work out a price.

or call me on 0417 084 405

Edited by SLY-dN

yea caar is being stripped

passenger door was damaged and so was shell but driveline is fine and so is pretty much all interior

ahh bugger. sorry to hear.

how much for bits i mentioned also stcok intercooler. dont need piping etc.

are there any plastics in the boot. also the jack fro the boot.

think thats all i can think of atm.

cheers

matt

lol everythin m-spec part from front bar lol

had a gtr bar

and matt 971 i still got boot plastics and stock cooler core.

give me a call on the number i posted and we can work out a price for the stuff u want, i'll do a deal 4 ya

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...