Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I woudlnt reccomend running 11-12's even on a cold night with stock internals. It's just not good for the life of your car and turbo.

The Skyline R33's full Stock specs (well the ones i couldd find anyways) :

NISSAN E-ECR33

Dimensions Overall Length (mm) 4640

Overall Width (mm) 1720

Overall Height (mm) 1340

Room Length (mm) 1820

Room Width (mm) 1415

Room Height (mm) 1090

Wheelbase (mm) 2720

Turbo: Garret intercooled Ceramic Turbo.

Total weight (kg) 1410 (Around about that much)

Turning circle radius (m) 5.2

Fuel consumption: 8km / l L (realistically running BP ultimate)

Drive Type Rear wheel drive, HICAS

Steering Rack-and-pinion steering

ENGINE: RB25DET Water-cooled inline 6-cylinder DOHC 24v

Bore and Stroke (mm) 86.0 x 71.7

Displacement (cc) 2498

Maximum Compression ratio: 7.0 PSI

Maximum horsepower (PS/rpm) 245/6400

Maximum torque (kgm/rpm) 28/4800

Fuel system Nissan EGI (ECCS)

electronic fuel injection

Fuel type Premium unleaded gasoline

Fuel tank capacity (l) 65

Hope that Helps in someway.

I dont want any pplz messeging me saying there's is different. Chances are, it prob is. This is in stock form and every car is a little different depending on its condition.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20349-r33-gts-t-specifications/
Share on other sites

Originally posted by dineth

I woudlnt reccomend running 11-12's even on a cold night with stock internals. It's just not good for the life of your car and turbo.  

I've been running 14psi on a stock engine for almost a year now, with no problems. The stock engine can handle up to around 18psi easily, but the factory turbo can't. They tend to top out at around 12-14psi. I've got an aftermarket turbo though, I will speak with my mechanic when it goes in for a tune and find out what boost it'll safely run at.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
    • Yes it is ATF. I quote @Duncan "it takes a good synthentic auto trans fluid like Castrol Transmax Z" It's not a diff. It's a transfer case. Totally different thing. Yes, fluid will come out the sender hole. No you do not really need to drain it. Just pull the old, quickly poke the new, clean up and top up. But realistically, you should probably take the opportunity to change it anyway.
    • Hey all. I’m looking on replacing my speed sensor on my R33 GTR. Will the center differential need to be drained, and if so, the center diff uses ATF fluid D? I found information on the transmission, front diff and rear diff. Can’t find a for sure answer for the center diff. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
×
×
  • Create New...