Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi i have a small issue with my r33 gtst. running 250bhp (186kw)

when driving along at ANY (even at 80 or 90mph) (128 or 144kph)speed and holding it at a set speed its like it drops in and out of overdrive but as soon as i come of the throtle and back on it or press the throtle it gose back to normal till it dose it again.

i have done a system check via the power button light and i got 1 long flash followed by 10 short flash so there seems no faulf on there and the atf level is ok and no burnt smell.

this is confusing me and i want to get it sorted as i have mv auto's valve body for it but dont want to put it in if the box is knackered

any help apreciated please

Edited by wolf
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204366-r33-auto-box-hunting/
Share on other sites

Does the O/D OFF light on the dash also intermittenly flash on & off?

It's mostly likely to be electrical. Remove the shifter surround console & visually check the O/D button & along its wiring for any loose/ damaged connection. Then test it using a 12V test light or a multimeter on the O/D switch wire.

Otherwise you may have very low line pressure which can be casued by a number of things but, cleaning the ATF filter may help.

If neither of these are the case give Mike from MV Autos a call as he'll be more than happy to help you out.

  • 2 weeks later...
hi i have a small issue with my r33 gtst. running 250bhp (186kw)

when driving along at ANY (even at 80 or 90mph) (128 or 144kph)speed and holding it at a set speed its like it drops in and out of overdrive but as soon as i come of the throtle and back on it or press the throtle it gose back to normal till it dose it again.

i have done a system check via the power button light and i got 1 long flash followed by 10 short flash so there seems no faulf on there and the atf level is ok and no burnt smell.

this is confusing me and i want to get it sorted as i have mv auto's valve body for it but dont want to put it in if the box is knackered

any help apreciated please

Are you running an aftermarket computer? If you are, almost no models come with a shift controller for an Auto box, as a result, the ride will be ragged an unpredictable. They basically run maximum line pressure, rev it up and just whack her in gear whole doing funny things with your O/D. Best thing if you're running an aftermarket computer is to purchase a separate shift controller unit and install that on the car so it has the smarts to deal with the auto box.

Are you running an aftermarket computer? If you are, almost no models come with a shift controller for an Auto box, as a result, the ride will be ragged an unpredictable. They basically run maximum line pressure, rev it up and just whack her in gear whole doing funny things with your O/D. Best thing if you're running an aftermarket computer is to purchase a separate shift controller unit and install that on the car so it has the smarts to deal with the auto box.

nope i have the standard ecu and no other add on computers

i did do an ecu reset and was fine for a few days then came back

  • 3 weeks later...

i have a similar prob. it also happens when cruising at anywhere above 80kph. the box just drops into overdrive and refuses to shift up. sometimes it seems to do it less if im in snow - which also seems to make it shift up sooner. i have tried completely coming off the throttle but it does nothing positive. i have to rev it hard in 3rd to maintain speed. once i clunked it into neutral and back to drive. seemed to do the trick but only that once.

i have a similar prob. it also happens when cruising at anywhere above 80kph. the box just drops into overdrive and refuses to shift up. sometimes it seems to do it less if im in snow - which also seems to make it shift up sooner. i have tried completely coming off the throttle but it does nothing positive. i have to rev it hard in 3rd to maintain speed. once i clunked it into neutral and back to drive. seemed to do the trick but only that once.

yep but what i have found is when i do an ecu reset it goes for a few days. also when it does do it i now give the accelerator a bit of stick and it goes and stops doing it till next time the car is switched off. but got mv auto's valve body a new filter and oil for it so see if that cures it

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...