Jump to content
SAU Community

Walbro 255

boosted_32

By boosted_32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

trunk-rattlin Rookie

trunk-rattlin

Posted
Posted

Just a bit of a hijack.

Ive got an rb30det in a 180sx. Its got a 500Hp walbro intank fuel pump in it. Its just at a workshop at the moment getting bigger injectors and a link g3 installed. ( i think they are evo injectors they have sorced). Before it gets put on the dyno, do i tell them i dont want it to run anymore then 14psi? The fuel line pressures that have been mentioned, are these the same through all turbo nissan motors? I wasnt aware how boost affected fuel line pressure.

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted
...What they do is wire relays to bring the second pump online in times of high demand . The downside is what if the wiring/relay failed and the secondaryt didn't start ? Bang ?

More info/pics would be interesting!

Though... just as the factory ECU's on R32's trigger a soft earth for the f.pump; lower flow at idle, the dual "trigger extra pump when needed" Iv seen before. Tru, full load and the pump (for what ever reason) doesnt kick in... boom (ok ok, a cheap closed loop fail safe could be made)

The wider picture though, contains the fact that your using two fuel pumps to provide the vital injector head pressure. In reality if the second pump in a "both always on" situation EVER fails, you could lean out and det a motor, where a single pump should drop pressure more rappidly.

Correct, there are many items in even a stock car, could fail could kill a motor, partially stuck injector, manufacturing dag falls off an oil filter and goes through motor etc etc, but it still plays on my mind.

A single unit that does the job becomes tempting...

Just a bit of a hijack.

Ive got an rb30det in a 180sx. Its got a 500Hp walbro intank fuel pump in it. Its just at a workshop at the moment getting bigger injectors and a link g3 installed. ( i think they are evo injectors they have sorced). Before it gets put on the dyno, do i tell them i don't want it to run anymore then 14psi? The fuel line pressures that have been mentioned, are these the same through all turbo nissan motors? I wasnt aware how boost affected fuel line pressure.

Really, even if your pump does drop pressure past 14psi, your tuner could most likely, beef up the cells that are hit in those more loaded conditions.

If you weren't aware that boost pressure effects fuel pressure, i would strongly recommend talking over with your tuner about pumps and what you know about Walbro's.

My opinions only.

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted (edited)

Also sort off ..... related .

I think I did read somewhere that the GTR's multi voltage fuel pump powering device works at different voltages (lower in low ?) than a GTST . I fitted an R33 GTR pump to my S2 R33 GTST and it is a little louder though nothing to cry about .

I'd like to now how many voltage steps the GTR switched resistor thing does and how they differ to other Nissans , I just wonder if the GTR's gadget may help people with big pumps in street GTST's .

I was told about a mod to the Walbro that some used to do to get more out of them , its dangerous and illegal and I don't want blood on my hands .

I think the bottom line pump wise is use an adequately sized one for your power goal and not go over the top because it just creates avoidable problems .

Edited by discopotato03
Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
Also sort off ..... related .

I think I did read somewhere that the GTR's multi voltage fuel pump powering device works at different voltages (lower in low ?) than a GTST . I fitted an R33 GTR pump to my S2 R33 GTST and it is a little louder though nothing to cry about .

I'd like to now how many voltage steps the GTR switched resistor thing does and how they differ to other Nissans , I just wonder if the GTR's gadget may help people with big pumps in street GTST's .

I was told about a mod to the Walbro that some used to do to get more out of them , its dangerous and illegal and I don't want blood on my hands .

I think the bottom line pump wise is use an adequately sized one for your power goal and not go over the top because it just creates avoidable problems .

All of the R32/33/34's I have tested have 2 voltages for the fuel pump, one around 9 volts and the other 13.8 volts. I haven't spent a lot of time on it but what I have observed is 9 volts at idle, although it seems to be anytime the ECU is running closed loop via the standard (slow and narrow) lambda sensor. Which is logical when you think about it.

Cheers

Gary

GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted (edited)
I just wonder if the GTR's gadget may help people with big pumps in street GTST's .

Theres a person or two on SAU who's used a Jaycar kit off the AFM signal in his GTST. He's set up the unit to switch the larger pumps earth, through a resister when at low AFM signal output. I think he said it had strong effects on the fuel temperature.

Something like this i would assume, Jaycar kit KC5377

Edited by GeeTR
mark_sudakov Community Regular

mark_sudakov

Posted
Posted
It's a matter of cutting the bottom plate off the stock bracket (normal wire cutters will do it), putting 2 clamps on to hold the walbro and using 2 crimp connectors to connect the wires. I'm not exaggerating how easy it was.

So the Walbro pump does require modifying. I was under the impression nothing needs to be cut, just electrical side of things. And i hve also recently found that the stock R32 pump is almost twice the size of the Walbro, so it wont drop straight in. Is there any tuts to show how it actually fits?

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted
All of the R32/33/34's I have tested have 2 voltages for the fuel pump, one around 9 volts and the other 13.8 volts. I haven't spent a lot of time on it but what I have observed is 9 volts at idle, although it seems to be anytime the ECU is running closed loop via the standard (slow and narrow) lambda sensor. Which is logical when you think about it.

Cheers

Gary

Gary, I tested my Powerfc a while ago and I am 90% sure they do away with the stepped voltage setup and run 14 volts full time.

Can you confirm this?

  • 8 months later...
Fastrotor Proficient

Fastrotor

Posted
Posted

Mafia,

Whats your nismo part number for your intank ? 17042-RRS41 ? Nismo website lists this pump for R33 GTST, so does slide on this site.

Now i went looking for info as i prefer to check all claims myself as a due diligence thing, and going by the nismo website themselves, there pump chart lists the GTST pump as 4.1 Lpm @ 3Kg/Cm ( 246Lph @ 42.7Psi)

There GTR pumps are still only rated at 42.7psi , abeilt at your mentioned 276 Lph.

So my questions to you are, what part number did you use, where did you get the high pressure rating you mention ( 70Psi) at there 276 lph flow ? Have you seen a flow curve for these pumps you can point me to ?

Gary

For reference :- http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competi...df/hf_fpump.pdf

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...