Jump to content
SAU Community

Problem At High Boost! Yet Another Problem

thinh

By thinh,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

thinh Enthusiast

thinh

Posted
Posted (edited)

hi there

Not sure if anyone has had the same problem but my at high rev range seems start popping and cracking.

apparenlty from behind theres alot of black smoke and crackles coming out.

just seems to keep on popping when i floor anywhere above 5000rpm at first gear.

can anyone help?

Edited by thinh
lammy426 Enthusiast

lammy426

Posted
Posted
nah not just first. happens all the way through to 3rd gear never been able to get higher.

and whats t he usual ignition checks?

i had something simular and it was just worn out/lower grade sparkplugs or to bigger gap if not coilpacks worth a check cheapest first

thinh Enthusiast

thinh

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i had something simular and it was just worn out/lower grade sparkplugs or to bigger gap if not coilpacks worth a check cheapest first

oh no worries. i got a set of new spark plugs at home but just never got around to changing them.

il try put them in tonight.

Adz Experienced

Adz

Posted
Posted

Sounds like detonation to me. Could be time for a new fuel pump and a tune up.

Could also be the spark blowing out at high boost that that will usally happen when boost comes on as aposed to at high revs.

Change and gap the plugs. If it still happend then its detonation which will kill a motor prety quick.

thinh Enthusiast

thinh

Posted
  • Author
Posted

oh okay thanks alot for all your help but now i cant even test out my new spark plugs

cause my car wont even run =/

becuase after i came back from the mountins near home ( thank god) my car started losing

power. everthing slowly started dieing, and then everything shutdown.

i can jump start the car and let it run off the jumper battery but the moment i

take the leads off the car just cuts out.

PROBLEM AFTER PRBLEM =[

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kaptain
      R33 general questions

      By Kaptain · Posted

      Lol yeah I ordered the clips mentioned and as far as the amayama diagrams go i think thats all I'll need. Fogured id ask, sometimes people's first hand experience doesnt always match up to diagrams haha, i guess I'll wing it and worse comes to worse I'll just deal with it as I go
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Thanks for all that information I appreciate it. To answer your questions: - Yep that's what I mean. These guys are professional painters to so I must be missing something. It's a bit hard to explain. - With the primer landing on clearcoat, I make sure that the surrounding clearcoat is scuffed to 240 grit as my epoxy primer says that I only need to sand the area to 240 grit. - Yeah so similar to the first question, assuming that the paint landed on the unscuffed clearcoat because I've seen that happen. - Yep I want to prep the surface in that order. Only reason because epoxy primer will protect it from rust and I need that atm with this crappy Sydney weather. I think I was worried about time, if I try to put the filler down but screw it up somehow and I don't have time to sand it off and reapply it then need to put primer later that it might start to rust again so I wanted to apply the primer as quick as possible to not deal with rust.  - I just deleted some answers, I just realised after watching a video and what you said about looking at the data sheet, that I need to read the data sheet on the specific filler I'm using. It's possible now that I put epoxy primer first was a waste of time and need to go to bare metal lol
    • silviaz
      Did tie rods. Steering now not "springing" back.

      By silviaz · Posted

      I did. I went to a suspension guy and he told me because I don't have adjustable camber arms it's the reason why my car veers towards the left if I take my hands off the wheel but if I drive my other every day car and take my hands off the steering wheel it goes completely straight. I think it's common with Skyline's. In order to fix the problem, I likely need gktech camber arms then nismo bushes since I have poly bushes atm, then a wheel alignment after that. With my car if I take my hands off the steering wheel on a really bumpy road before stopping at a light I have to hold my steering wheel somewhat tight otherwise my car will legit just go completely in the other direction quite quickly and I'll slam into something lol instead of stopping straight. I Believe this YouTuber had the same issue and fixed it with gktech arms. At timestmap 6:05 he talks about how the car doesn't veer anymore after installing these arms.  
    • itsforandres
      BCNR33 Blower Motor Resistor - Testing

      By itsforandres · Posted

      hello! does anyone have a schematic that shows how to test the blower motor resistor for the vac system? i believe the part# is 27761-15U00. I think the resistor is toast, but would like to be able to test it somehow before i embark on the journey to find a new one. cheers! 27761-15U00
    • soviet_merlin
      R33 general questions

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      I don't know the answer to this, but did you have a look at the parts diagrams on amayama.com and see what they list around it for your car? As an example this should be it on my car. That's how I would check for required clips and things like that. But, I take no responsibility for you ending up with a box full of random OEM hoses, washers and clips after going down that path a few times. This definitely has never happened to me  
×
×
  • Create New...