Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi learned people

just wondering how i would go about programming a Viper remote?? I can't find the booklet telling me how to do it...

i've google'd a bit, and all i get is

-ignition on

-press button (the hidden one usually under dash somewhere) once, release

-press and hold

-press 'lock' button on remote

-let go

and then apparently the remote should now start talking to the car again.... but not for me :banana:

the only other thing i was told was unplug the alarm module, give it a bit and then plug back in, but i don't know how to take apart the area under the steering column yet...

is there something i'm missing with reprogramming the remote?? I've had a couple people do it with Bitwriters but i've been told i can do the same without a bitwriter, it's just that the press/release/press and hold never seems to work for me

cheers,

daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204519-how-to-program-viper-remote/
Share on other sites

a little side note...

how do i remove all the plastic parts under/around the steering wheel?? trying to get to my alarm module...

i've taken out all the screws from my steering column surround. Taken out 1 screw to the left (under the TCS OFF switch)

I've also taken out the 2 screws holding up the bonnet release latch.... but i can't take the f*cker apart! am i missing more screws, or does the steering column plastic have to come away completely (the 2 halves?)??

please help asap

cheers,

daniel

cheers for the offer Chris :D i got it sorted, but i'll prob grab that manual anyway :)

For some reason the programming steps outline above don't work, but unhooking the alarm module AND taking the battery out of the remote at the same time, did work!

So i un-hooked the alarm module (the big wide white plug in the back and the smaller one next to it) and left all the little ones attached to the sides.

Then took the battery out of my remote.

Let the car sit for a bit, then plugged module back in, and put the battery back in the remote. THEN i did the procedure above.

Valet button press once, release, press again and HOLD. Press 'arm' on the remote and BINGO!! It locked!! If only it did that WITHOUT having to unhook the alarm module, it would be even better :D

And for some unknown reason, it fixed my 'remote start' issues too. Wouldn't remote start when cold, was told to change the settings from 'voltmetre' to 'tachometre' or something like that, i didn't know how to change that without a bitwriter, but it's working now.

Chris, is the 'manual' different to the 'owners guide'. I found that, but doesn't have any real programming instructions in there....

do hope this helps others with similar issues after a flat battery

cheers,

daniel

  • 6 months later...

sorry to trawl this up, but i'm having some issues programming a remote also... as above i have been trying the door open, ign on, press release and so on.. but i seem to have an on/off toggle switch rather than a push button switch? model #: EZSDE1478

could this be why i dont anything when i try the procedure? or is there another 'valet' switch somewhere?

or do i have the same issue as Daniel above?

edit: i just found this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ca...am+viper+remote, so i will try looking harder for the valet button.. :P

Edited by nitestalkr

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...