Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

newbie here.... tried searching.... when i need info it doesnt comes up, when i don need it, its everywhere.

i just had my car fitted with avcr+safc2. was tuned and producing 280rwhp at the moment.

avcr was set at 0.7bar and 1bar. the tuner says that there is only 8hp difference between the low n high boost.... he also added tat the high boost comes in quicker than the low boost. he says its safe to have it at 1bar.

current mods are:

pod filter

straight thru exhaust

splitfire coilpacks

FMIC....

the rest are stock.

i have read some threads stating that 1 bar(14.5psi) is the max boost the stock turbo can handle. izit safe driving on 1bar everyday??

another question: can i change the boost levels between low n high after the tune? does it affect the tuning?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205277-1bar-safe/
Share on other sites

No, its not safe, and if it only makes 8hp extra, why risk it. The only reason that it would make such a small difference in hp is because of the lack of tunability with the safc

yeah i think i will set it to low boost for now....

tats y i am confused.... the mechanic who installed the avcr and the tuner says its ok to have it at 1bar everyday.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205277-1bar-safe/#findComment-3635097
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
    • You'd really have to pull it apart further to know, it least you can be confident that the one heading to the back is not connected any more. There was once a ground on the shifter seal mount too, your head unit issue could be that simple
    • Perfect, I'll get to it this winter then at the same time as I weld on my anti squat kit. 
    • Alright so my 32 only has one temperature no matter what degree you set it to. I’ve tried disconnecting the servo motor arm and moving it either direction and got no change. I’ve fixed the leak in my AC and re charged it and with it on and clutch engaged it still blows hot even though the low pressure pipe going to the firewall is ice cold. Both heater core hoses are hot while running as well. Diagnostic code showed 24 for intake air temperature sensor. Anybody got any ideas?
×
×
  • Create New...