Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

take it out, scrub it with metho to remove the dodge factory paint. Respray with plastic primer and Powerplus Desert Rose Metallic to get a close to factory look (don't forget to do the triple gauges and A/C cover so it looks the goods)

Link http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sh...l&hl=666dan

  • 2 months later...
take it out, scrub it with metho to remove the dodge factory paint. Respray with plastic primer and Powerplus Desert Rose Metallic to get a close to factory look (don't forget to do the triple gauges and A/C cover so it looks the goods)

Link http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sh...l&hl=666dan

how do u remove the whole panel..what screws do i need to unscrew? im having a hard time and also the AC? its for an R34 Auto btw. and what sanpaper grit did u use ??

I just did mine today!

Many thanks to 666DAN's thread for giving me the inspiration.

I used the powerplus desert rose like Dan did, and also their silver for the gear and stereo surround to give it that brushed aluminium look that's like in my Z :cheers: .

post-29425-1209874289_thumb.jpgpost-29425-1209874407_thumb.jpg

R32___Australian_Specification.pdf

post-29425-1209874446_thumb.jpg

Edited by Yo-Yo
how do u remove the whole panel..what screws do i need to unscrew? im having a hard time and also the AC? its for an R34 Auto btw. and what sanpaper grit did u use ??

1. Start off by taking out the ash tray, you'll see a screw holding down the gear stick surround, once it's off you can pop out the surround (dunno if there's anything extra involved for an auto. You'll need to unplug the alligator clips holding the cigarette lighter

2. Use a flat head screwdriver and wedge it in between the air con vents and the edge of the dashboard being very careful not to scratch anything, easiest to do it on the opoosite side of the hazard lights, gently pry the air con vents out until it comes loose, you need to unclip the hazard lights. Up to you if you want to take out the hazard switch for painting purposes, simply hold the clips together holding it in and slide the switch out.

3. The first 2 steps will reveal the screws holding in the air con unit and stereo, unscrew these and the aircon and stereo come out together on the same bracket. You can then unscrew the air con unit and take it out. Once that is done you can then unscrew the stereo surround and take it out.

4. now that these are out the last thing left will be the triple guage pods up top. When you take out the air con vents it will reveal the screws holding the pod in place. once the screws are off it's a simple case of sliding it forward and out to reveal the screws holding the guages in. The guages are a 1 piece setup so all you need to do is unscrew them at either end to remove.

5. Paint the parts to your heart's content then put them back into place in reverse order

1. Start off by taking out the ash tray, you'll see a screw holding down the gear stick surround, once it's off you can pop out the surround (dunno if there's anything extra involved for an auto. You'll need to unplug the alligator clips holding the cigarette lighter

2. Use a flat head screwdriver and wedge it in between the air con vents and the edge of the dashboard being very careful not to scratch anything, easiest to do it on the opoosite side of the hazard lights, gently pry the air con vents out until it comes loose, you need to unclip the hazard lights. Up to you if you want to take out the hazard switch for painting purposes, simply hold the clips together holding it in and slide the switch out.

3. The first 2 steps will reveal the screws holding in the air con unit and stereo, unscrew these and the aircon and stereo come out together on the same bracket. You can then unscrew the air con unit and take it out. Once that is done you can then unscrew the stereo surround and take it out.

4. now that these are out the last thing left will be the triple guage pods up top. When you take out the air con vents it will reveal the screws holding the pod in place. once the screws are off it's a simple case of sliding it forward and out to reveal the screws holding the guages in. The guages are a 1 piece setup so all you need to do is unscrew them at either end to remove.

5. Paint the parts to your heart's content then put them back into place in reverse order

Thanks for the instructions!!!

Btw ur dash looks great :laugh:

Im going to do from the triple guage holder down to the gear surround in silver. Will 2 cans do it?

Just rang Supercheap auto, they have the small powerplus pressure packs for $10.99, and the plasic primer is $17.99. i think ill need about 3 paint cans and one primer?

Edited by Damo_R34
Thanks for the instructions!!!

Btw ur dash looks great :dry:

No dramas at all buddy

:merli:

Im going to do from the triple guage holder down to the gear surround in silver. Will 2 cans do it?

Just rang Supercheap auto, they have the small powerplus pressure packs for $10.99, and the plasic primer is $17.99. i think ill need about 3 paint cans and one primer?

1 primer should do it.

I only did the gear surround, ash tray, stereo surround and the side panels for the power windows and I only JUST got enough paint out of 1 can to do them all with the small pressure packs, so safe to say 2 would be needed.

I did the aircon unit, air con vents and guage pod in the darker paint and that used up about 3/4 of the can doing 4 coats of paint on all those panels.

1 primer should do it.

I only did the gear surround, ash tray, stereo surround and the side panels for the power windows and I only JUST got enough paint out of 1 can to do them all with the small pressure packs, so safe to say 2 would be needed.

I did the aircon unit, air con vents and guage pod in the darker paint and that used up about 3/4 of the can doing 4 coats of paint on all those panels.

Thanks heasp for the info. should have pics up on sunday when its done!!!

I just did mine today!

Many thanks to 666DAN's thread for giving me the inspiration.

I used the powerplus desert rose like Dan did, and also their silver for the gear and stereo surround to give it that brushed aluminium look that's like in my Z :banana: .

post-29425-1209874289_thumb.jpgpost-29425-1209874407_thumb.jpg

R32___Australian_Specification.pdf

dude, how did you get off the parts around the power window controls? they look good

dude, how did you get off the parts around the power window controls? they look good

The power windows and mirror switches can be taken out pretty easily, unclip them from the power wires first obviously,

the power windows switch has 3 screws that hold it in.

The power mirror switch has two sections you can squeeze together to make it pop out, you'll see what I mean when you do it

Edited by Yo-Yo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...