Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

warrick, if you get one, i will help you with it ok?

I HOPE ALL OF YOU ENJOY YOUR STICKS AS I DO MINE! CORNY EH? :bahaha:

  • Replies 103
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ABM,spoke to my son & he's decided to wait a while on the shifter.doesnt get his licence back for a few weeks yet so is more interested in getting the pwerfc with hand controller & boost unit.

thanks for your help though & kind offer.

cheers

warrick

xxe-r32 going by the apexi catalogue, apexi dont have a standard power fc for the hcr32. they do however make an AP ENGINEERING VERSION. it is however a quite a bit dearer. if interested, pm me. i will see what i can do.

TODAY I SENT:

GIJOR33's C'S quickshift (mate i sent it express you should have it tomorrow)

GRIM's quickshift sent COD

B-MAN's ECR33 sent COD

I HAVE ONE ECR33 STICK LEFT

DJ its yours! Pm me your details and i will get it off to you today!

cheers mate! check your email mate. sent you my details.

chris

Well i got mine in today, and it works a treat... pretty easy to install. About 45min if take your time and you have the tools.

Makes the gearbox feel much sharper... i haven't actually taken it for a good drive, but i will tonight!!!

Thanks again Chris

Andrew

anyone got a link to how to install it was quoted $50 for the install... do you need to jack the carf up much as my jack from marlows doesnt seem to lift the wheels of the ground its weird.... it lifts it just enough to manage an oil change... but yer how can i fit this myself ?

mate... no jacking required. It came with an instruction booklet but it's in japanese... the pictures gave enough info on how to remove the old gear stick and put the new one in. I wouldn't pay $50 to install it, too easy to do. Just take the gearstick boot/plastic bit off, undo the screws and then follow the pictures.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...