Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys was driving my car 2day then then all of a sudden its lost alot of power and sounded like a wrx. I have a 32 with a rb26, I took it to a mechanic to have a look at it, Had about 10 grand spent on the motor 6 months ago so I was very worried something had happend, they guy did a compression test and everything seems to be fine 150psi across all 6 cylinders and plugs seem to look ok aswell? wot else could cause a cylinder to drop out? its cylinder 1. I have just put new splitfire coils in it aswell so I can eliminate that and It did have new plugs put it it last oil change

Edited by boosted_32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205885-wot-causes-a-cylinder-to-drop/
Share on other sites

could be an injector, coil, or the ignitor pack, the wiring to the ignitor pack, the wiring from the ignitor to the coil, the wiring to the injector, it even could be the cas.

start with, pulling the coil out of cylinder 1 and swapped it for say cylinder 2, if the problem moves to cylinder 2 then its the coil. if it stays on cylinder 1 then its something else.

then i'd checked the injector is getting its pulse, is it squirting fuel. if it is its probably the ignitor or cylinder 1's ignition wiring. if not then id check the cas out.

could be an injector, coil, or the ignitor pack, the wiring to the ignitor pack, the wiring from the ignitor to the coil, the wiring to the injector, it even could be the cas.

start with, pulling the coil out of cylinder 1 and swapped it for say cylinder 2, if the problem moves to cylinder 2 then its the coil. if it stays on cylinder 1 then its something else.

then i'd checked the injector is getting its pulse, is it squirting fuel. if it is its probably the ignitor or cylinder 1's ignition wiring. if not then id check the cas out.

hey mate found the problem but dont know where to start to fix it, we took the plug of the injector for cylinder one and put a test light on it and you can see the light flashing on and off as the injector is pulsing but then all of a sudden it stops for a bit then comes back on and keeps doing it, so every time it looses power I drop cylinder 1???

when you say your watching the injector test light flash, then stop for abit, are you just watching this while your cranking the engine, or when the engine is running?

what ecu are you running?

and did you check the condition of the wires and plug for that injector?

when you say your watching the injector test light flash, then stop for abit, are you just watching this while your cranking the engine, or when the engine is running?

what ecu are you running?

and did you check the condition of the wires and plug for that injector?

yeh had the engine running and took off the injector plug to test it with a test light and the light pulses as its ment to but then cuts out for say 30 sec or a couple of mins then comes back on......keeps doin this. Im running an emanage piggy back

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...