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R33 Stalling


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hey all.

mates got a 4 door r33 gtst which started stalling yesterday.. since he put on a dump pipe.. it only stalls when at idle, drives the same, a bit extra power.

what happens is that it stalls after 10-30 secs of idling... otherwise it drives fine.

mods:

FMIC

Full exh

pod filter

stock boost(7~psi)

wasted spark setup

HKS bov(working fine before)

weve tried to unplug the aac valve, and that doesnt make a diff.. the lambda sensor is unplugged, it doesnt make a diff even if plugged in(as its only for fuel economy anyway)

any ideas? weve tried resetting th ecu. all the plugs seem to be in place and nothing loose.

Help??

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I say it is the bov I had that problem when I got mine installed. Basically mine would stall every now and then but xspeed sort of fixed the problem by adjusting the the car to idle at about 900-1000 rpm instead of 600 rpm. Did not work 100% but heaps better. The only way to fix it 100% is get one that is plumbed into the car.

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why would the bov cause the car to stall AFTER it's been idling for 10-30 seconds?

I'm a hater of bovs as much as the next guy but it doesn't make sense.

When it stalls, is it sudden?

as in, does it idle along perfectly then completely cuts out, or do the revs drop a little and car starts to splutter, then stall?

Is the car auto or manual?

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thanks for the replies guys! :blush:

well.. say ur idling in the carpark with the keys in the ignition.. after 10-30 secs it will struggle ALL of a sudden.. seems like the spark is there, the fuel is there but it stalls. seems like a sensor or something is all of a sudden...

i will try putting on my stock bov tonight if i have time.

i also have my suspicion on the bov but then im not 100% on it.

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I'm going to suggest the AFM.

my 200sx did this on occasions.

the cable to the AFM on my car was dodgy and would sometimes cause a temporary bad reading. enough to cause it to drop revs, then back up and sometimes just struggle for 2 seconds then stall.

see if you can force it to happen.

pop the bonnet.

start the car.

then move your afm cable around.

or even move the afm around (if you have a pod filter instead of stock airbox).

in the DIY section of these forums, do a search for "AFM+SOLDER" to find the thread on how to repair a faulty AFM.

also, if you haven't already done so, take the AFM off and spray the inside with electric contact cleaner.

this will clean off any oily shit and dirt that might be there causing the problems.

spray on and it's clean and dry within 20 seconds.

The soldering is also pretty easy..

have a search/read

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yeh i had my suspiscion on the afm as well, however it runs fine so that kinda rules it out, but ill have a play around either tonight or tmorw.

i sent him to my tuner today so hopefully he can give him some tips.

would a clogged up aac valve do this? i dont think so, as the aac valve is only good for when cold right?

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idle is BOV - its probably got a really small fluctuation that is causwe the bov to open and shut a little bit. Then after a while he BOV opens and shuts a little bit more and more each time, then eventually after 20 seconds, its opening too much on idle and you start to notice how much your piece of shit BOV is making the car run like a dog.

Take it off and I bet the problem is fixed.

Or prove me wrong, and put a piece of coke can inbetween it and block it off completely and tell me if it stops idling bad.

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alright so my tuner just had a look at it.. reckns its the aac valve..

thing is now that it idles at 2000rpm and doesnt stall as often.. maybe say 2/5 times only. so were gna quickly clean out the aac tonight, if that doesnt fix it ill chuck on my stock bov. :happy:

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alright so my tuner just had a look at it.. reckns its the aac valve..

thing is now that it idles at 2000rpm and doesnt stall as often.. maybe say 2/5 times only. so were gna quickly clean out the aac tonight, if that doesnt fix it ill chuck on my stock bov. :happy:

lol and once you have put the stock bov back on might want to lower the idle back to normal. 2k is just silly

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