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Trackday Sandown 15th March Our Cheapest Ever Trackday


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Replace the current pads with high performance items and put in some good quality fluid. I recomend HAWK HT-10's. The are pricy however they will last twice as long as any other pad you will ever use and they are not too harsh on disks. I would also recomend Endless pads or Ferodos.

Adz, thanks a lot for the information, I appreciate it.

I've created this new thread about whether I should buy track-day break pads or just upgrade to some track/street pads:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Br...-H-t206986.html

That way I won't hi-jack this thread too much :(

I've heard conflicting stories about the 100 octane but I'll get my car tuned first (buying a PowerFC soon) and then I'll check with the tuner for recommendations about fuel for the track day.

Regards

Gareth

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Oh, I should mention that I'm running street tyres at the moment as its my first track-day so going for really good brakes probably isn't the best investment unless I'm doing the pads and the tyres each track day ... or is it?

Oh, I should mention that I'm running street tyres at the moment as its my first track-day so going for really good brakes probably isn't the best investment unless I'm doing the pads and the tyres each track day ... or is it?

Changing pads and your brake fluid is a great idea. If you have shitty pads and fluid... by the end of a session your brakes will get pretty spongy and you wont feel as confident pushing your car near your limits. You don’t really want to have to be worrying about if your car will pull up or not coming into a corner off the straights at the end of a session. When I changed to good brake fluid (RBF600 I think it was off the top of my head, you can get it from a bike shop) it made a big difference on the track. A brake master cylinder stopper is a good little cheap mod to your braking system as well, firms up the braking pedal and gives a much better braking feel.

A brake master cylinder stopper is a good little cheap mod to your braking system as well, firms up the braking pedal and gives a much better braking feel.

interesting.. how does one do this? :laugh:

oh, i've also paid my deposit quite a few days ago Kev :P

  • 2 weeks later...

cool, thanks mate

how would that ebay one differ from this one??

http://www.nengun.com/cusco/brake-cylinder-stopper

are there any local ones i could get without having to wait too long for postage?

How would it differ...the price I'd say...but haven't tested a cusco one so can't comment for sure....Justin911 had the ebay one on his GTS-T, and now has a cusco 1 on his GTR, but they are a different design for GTR so thats why he chose cusco....I'll link him to here when he's online and maybe he'll be able to give a better comparison of the 2.

My ebay 1 arrived today, so I'll be fitting it a bit later on...postage took about 2-3 days once the payment cleared so not a very long wait at all :)

cool, thanks mate ;) Doesn't look like a huge install, and they're not too pricey, so i might just get one before sandown as i've heard they make a huge difference.

anyone want to go halves in some Castrol transmax Z?? can only find places selling it in 4 litres, and i'm just using it for power steering fluid so i only really need 1 litre. Thinking maybe 2 if i want to do a good flush, so can go halves if people are interested? 4 litres = $72

if its ya first track day i wouldnt worry about rushing to get the pfc installed and tuned.

Just make sure you get rid of ur stock cat :thumbsup: (oh yeah i dont need to borrow it anymore, thanks anyways tho :P )

Adz, thanks a lot for the information, I appreciate it.

I've created this new thread about whether I should buy track-day break pads or just upgrade to some track/street pads:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Br...-H-t206986.html

That way I won't hi-jack this thread too much :)

I've heard conflicting stories about the 100 octane but I'll get my car tuned first (buying a PowerFC soon) and then I'll check with the tuner for recommendations about fuel for the track day.

Regards

Gareth

dezz take the spot mate. ive done this day before and i had a blast. learnt a lot from kev and the guys.

the motor was rebuilt less then 12 months ago...lets hope its nothing too major.

if its ya first track day i wouldnt worry about rushing to get the pfc installed and tuned.

Just make sure you get rid of ur stock cat :D (oh yeah i dont need to borrow it anymore, thanks anyways tho :nyaanyaa: )

Well you already know what is happening with the cat :D

I'm getting rid of the stock cat and getting a high-flow panel filter but I only made 156.6 AWKW on Rays dyno, so I'm not so sure what this weird Mines ECU is running, could be pinging on Australian fuel for all I know.

I want to get a PowerFC eventually, and I'm only doing a trackday once every, maybe 6 months, so might as well get the Power FC first :D

I knew there was something wrong with my car when i had it on rays dyno last saturday. 20kw loss didnt sound right. at least we know why now....

As far as i know my spot is still vacant. if anybody would like to go to this day (its well worth it) email Kev.

especially when it's going to be 35 degrees :)

think that Royal Purple 5w30 will be up for a 35 degree track day?

do we have to have our own helmet, or can we borrow one on the day?




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    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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