Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just got my speedo cable replaced on my R32, and driving home at night from work I turn on my lights and my headlights turn on, but the dash lights are off!

The clock on the dash was working and had light, but I couldn't see how fast I was going, or how much petrol I had or anything else on the dash!

What could the problem be?? :teehee:

[RESOLVED] Scroll further down for answer :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206040-resolved-dash-lights-not-working/
Share on other sites

sounds like the mechanic didn't reconnect the wiring.

Just pull your instrument cluster out and check all connections.

that should fix the problem if not check all fuses (you never

know when a fuse is going to let you down)

sounds like the mechanic didn't reconnect the wiring.

Just pull your instrument cluster out and check all connections.

that should fix the problem if not check all fuses (you never

know when a fuse is going to let you down)

Start with that and also check the earth from the back of the dash its usually the number one thing overlooked when putting it back :D

Thanks for the help guys :(

I took out the dash and I found that these two wires wern't connected. I connected them and the lights came on :(

Here is the pic, the wires are the black one and the red one (I know its a bad soldering job but I'm a noob with it lol)

dsc00244rw6.jpg

why were any wires cut in the first place? ive taken my dash out without having to cut anything on my 33. is it a 32 thing?

you might want to cover that solder with some tape. should use those thermal shrink tubes when you solder, makes things alot neater.

why were any wires cut in the first place? ive taken my dash out without having to cut anything on my 33. is it a 32 thing?

you might want to cover that solder with some tape. should use those thermal shrink tubes when you solder, makes things alot neater.

It wasn't cut it was just disconnected. I have no idea what a thermal shrink tube is lol but I did tape up the wire :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, I’ve just finished fitting the timing belt on my RB25, following the standard procedure: rotate the crank twice, release the tensioner, then tighten it down. The belt feels tight, and you can see that clearly in the picture below I’ve heard some people say it’s actually better for the belt to be slightly loose rather than too tight, as excessive tension can lead to snapping. So that’s in the back of my mind. What I’m seeing is this:  • At idle, the belt looks fine.  • But when cranking and especially when revving (around 3–4,000 RPM), there’s a momentary flap/flex or flicker in the belt, which I’ve tried to capture in the video. So my question is — based on what you see, is this slight belt movement something you’d consider normal, or am I just being OCD? Could this amount of movement cause sync issues? Or is it just a harmless bit of flex under load?   from what I know belt flap and flex is expected when crank spins up and pull cam with it Would appreciate any thoughts or similar experiences.     IMG_7656.mov IMG_7657.mov
    • I've replaced the front brakes of my NA to 324 brembos and 350z calipers: i'm going for 225/40-18 up front and 245/35-18 in the back. I have Rays 7.5*19 ET35(225/35) in the front with 5mm spacers otherwise the calipers "lock up/ won't rotate". When i use the calculator i come up with 8*18 ET30 for 225/40...... but not sure i get problems with the calipers. Anyone riding around with 18 inch. that can confirm "that it'll fit"? In the back it's 7.5*9 ET30 (245/30) with the 5mm spacers, but there is no problem with the standard small brakes, so i want to take 8.5*18 ET25 (245/35).
    • Lol.. but then.. always come back to a JDM..
    • Glad to hear. If possible, get your tuner to check air's to make sure everything is still where it should be.
    • The problem with FB/Insta/Reddit etc comments relating to cars is simple. You get to ask a question once, and get one round of replies. For things that can actually be answered in a few lines of text, once, it's fine. After 6 hours, your original question is lost to the void. There are no follow ups, additional questions, anything. No project car is ever such a simple list of questions to ask. You need discussion.
×
×
  • Create New...