Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Model: r33 gtst

Milage: 88000 genine

Transmission: 5 speed manal

Location: geelong vic

registered to:- 25 nov 08

Price: $19500 price drop $18000 $17000 $16,500 now $15,800

Contact:0431743866

Engine Modifications:

Apexi Power Fc with hand controller

770cc injectors

50mm wastegate hks

garret 35/40 turbo with .82 exhaust housing

high mount manifold

jd custom intake plenum

xf throttle body

tomei valve springs

splitfire coils

3inch custom stainless intercooler pipe tig welded

pwr intercooler 600/300/100

z32 airflow meter

adjustable cam gear exhaust side only

gates racing timing belt with brand new idlers and tensioners done at 72000kms

4inch dump pipe stainless

3 1/2 inch cat

3 inch trust cat back exhaust

blits bov

os giken twin plate clucth 3000km ago

tuned by ben at racepace

Wheels

17inch rodny jane racing wheels

235/45/R17 dunlop lemans tyres 75% tread

suspenion

kyb front and rear shockers

king springs

gtr front and rear strut brace

hicas lock bar

bendix ultermet front and rear brake pads 3000kms ago

interior

B piller twin gauge pod boost and air fuel ratio gauges

$2500 stereo

gizmo boost controller

Serviced every 2500km very reliable car never let me down yet

very clean car i was the first owner in australia i recieved the car stock from japan in 2005

it has a very save tune could see 330kws easy

test drives welcome genuine buyers only

will consider selling parts seprate pm me if you are interested

$15800 need this car sold i have bought a new car

post-36415-1203221774_thumb.jpg

post-36415-1203222326_thumb.jpg

post-36415-1203222682_thumb.jpg

post-36415-1203223007_thumb.jpg

Edited by SIDEWAYS R33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206410-for-sale-r33-gtst-291kw/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
    • And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
×
×
  • Create New...