Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So, I decided a few weeks ago to paint my brembo brakes on my GTR. They were all chipped due to stones, it is a 1996 after all. The last 2 years on NZ roads probably did more damage then it's entire life in Japan :)

To begin, mask off everything, and wash down the calipers with hot soapy water.

You'll need some Brembo stencils. Any shop that makes decals will be able to do this for you.

Paint Stripper

0kwikstrip.JPG

Brembo Stencils

1_1.JPG

After the first application of the stipper

1Firststrip.JPG

You may need to apply the stripper several times to clean off the factory paint.

2strip.JPG

3strip.JPG

4strip.JPG

5strip.JPG

After all the paint is off, sand back the calipers with 400 grit wet and dry

FRONT

6rtsprayf.JPG

REAR

7rtsprayf2.JPG

8rtspayr.JPG

You can either use hi temp paint or caliper paint. I've gone with a metallic charcoal. 2 coats should do the trick

FRONT

9paintedf.JPG

REAR

91paintingr.JPG

Important !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

LET THE PAINT CURE FOR A FEW DAYS BEFORE YOU PROCEED

The stencil may damage the paint if you don't

Attach the mask

92mask.JPG

Peel back the top protection of the mask.

92mask2.JPG

Ready to spray the logo

FRONT

93logospayf.JPG

REAR

94logor.JPG

95logomaskedr.JPG

About 3 coats are nessary as the metallic charcoal is quite dark. Hi Temp White

96frontcoat1.JPG

97frontdone.JPG

You can apply a clear coat for a more glossy finish and extra protection.

FRONT

98frontdone1.JPG

REAR

99reardone1.JPG

It takes a few days for the paint to cure properly so, best to avoid driving for a few days if you can.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206478-caliper-painting-guide-brembo/
Share on other sites

That is really cool. Where did u get the BREMBO stencils from? That would be a ricers dream, fake brembos!! Can you get NISSAN ones as well?

Any shop that can make decals will be able to make this stencil. Most signwriters that use vinyal cut lettering etc. I got a local signwriter to make them for me.

Thanks

  • 1 month later...

brembo's have very tough coatings and undercoats - paint stripper is a must on them

if you can get a good shot of the brembo writing in a jpg form, convert to vector graphics format its easy to get any sticker/vinyl shop to make them

  • 1 year later...
how long does this take in total (hours labour) and where can you find these high temp paints and clear coats from??

thanks

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pa...ers-t97215.html

This thread has est. time and where to purchase paints etc. :/

how long does this take in total (hours labour) and where can you find these high temp paints and clear coats from??

thanks

took around 2 hours per wheel , including preptime.

The whole project took a few days because it's important to let the paint cure

I'm actually contemplating doing mine at the moment... Want to go yellow just for something different. Any particular paint brand you would recommend? All I have been told is look for the Engine type paint (obviously for heat purposes)...

  • 1 month later...
don't u need to take the caliper off? it's reli cool

1) I tried and i couldn't , too hard.

2) I had just bled the entire brak system and changed all fluids about a month ealier to this project and did not want to go through it all again :P

Looking very nice... But one question, If you went to all that effort why did you choose not to go with a different colour perhaps?

I think the dark suits the car. It's a white GTR, if i'd made it anything else like blue, red, or yellow you'll just look like a douche :)

It's personal preference I guess.

This project was more about restoring the Brembo's to the orginal state as oppossed to pimping it out.

I'm actually contemplating doing mine at the moment... Want to go yellow just for something different. Any particular paint brand you would recommend? All I have been told is look for the Engine type paint (obviously for heat purposes)...

If your car is yellow then the yellow might suit... personally I think anything apart from black or grey gives off a rice boy racer vibe and gets you the wrong kind of attention :ermm:

Get good quality spay paint. Doesn't have to be hi-temp nessesarily. If you just drive around the city and motorways the acutall calipers don't get that hot. Just amke sure to cure it properly before taking it out for a drive. otherwise all that hard work will be ruined

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...