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well, at least you're not like the rest comnig here and saying that you want to put one on just for noise..

But still, the factory item is the best one for the application.

I've said it many times, I'm running 314rwkw, and 20psi of boost, and mine still works fine. There is no reason to change it because the airflow meter requires it.

Irish, trust me mate, your question has been answered in more ways than one, the obvious thing is block in with something you can find and hose clamp it in place, but the sensible option pleasantly would be best to get one plumbed in mainly for runnability plus legality with these things. As the moment you get caught which seems to be flip a coin and hope it doesn't land on defect you'll have to change it anyway back to a plumback system. Plus to be granted if and a big if, If you want noise change the induction pipe to a stainless one piss the rubber one off and chuck a decent pod on there apexi or the likes, and you'll still get the noise factor just not so noticeably loud, you still get the hoohaaa pssscchhhhh woop woop effects if you want them anyway. Plus saves your points on the license plus saves money from defects, plus doesn't really i guess in a sense waste fuel, due to the metered air dispersing to atmosphere technically.

I think that shall answer it all, not only plumback are usually almost the same price as vento ones

That should answer and cover it responsibly and kindly for you

Irish, trust me mate, your question has been answered in more ways than one, the obvious thing is block in with something you can find and hose clamp it in place, but the sensible option pleasantly would be best to get one plumbed in mainly for runnability plus legality with these things. As the moment you get caught which seems to be flip a coin and hope it doesn't land on defect you'll have to change it anyway back to a plumback system. Plus to be granted if and a big if, If you want noise change the induction pipe to a stainless one piss the rubber one off and chuck a decent pod on there apexi or the likes, and you'll still get the noise factor just not so noticeably loud, you still get the hoohaaa pssscchhhhh woop woop effects if you want them anyway. Plus saves your points on the license plus saves money from defects, plus doesn't really i guess in a sense waste fuel, due to the metered air dispersing to atmosphere technically.

I think that shall answer it all, not only plumback are usually almost the same price as vento ones

That should answer and cover it responsibly and kindly for you

Wow nicely said. Responisbly answered indeed, i should try that more often in bov threads. It seems to be almost instant flame reaction when you see the words atmo bov these days.

That said, standard plumback bovs go for quite cheap in the for sale section if you don't have one. When i say cheap usually around the $50 or less for a perfectly fine standard recirculating valve.

In all honesty, as much as one might think atmo bov's sound awesome, after driving around and having it vent all the time, the sound gets pretty average.

In all honesty, as much as one might think atmo bov's sound awesome, after driving around and having it vent all the time, the sound gets pretty average.

Thats very true, it does get annoying after a while which is why i still got the plumb back in the garage.

As for the stalling issues, its how you drive really. How do you pull up at the lights? Ill give an example.

How not to stall: Drive normally, not backing off on clutch after boosting right heavily.

How to stall: Rev it up on boost, then push the clutch in and hold it whilst coming to a stop and i guarantee you will stall.

Ive never had any problems with my atmo bov, people crying that it will burn more petrol because it runs richer blah blah. But how does that explain my 550km per tank economy?

Depends on the bov though i think. With my megasonic twin trumpet f**ken bazooka beast never had a problem, 14psi spring and tightened right up. Snaps shut after it vents so no dramas when returning to idle etc.

550km to a tank?? Fark, when i had 200rwkw i'd struggle to get over 350km or so!! Gonna be nasty when she's tuned with the gt3076 and inj's in a couple weeks :(

Depends on the bov though i think. With my megasonic twin trumpet f**ken bazooka beast never had a problem, 14psi spring and tightened right up. Snaps shut after it vents so no dramas when returning to idle etc.

550km to a tank?? Fark, when i had 200rwkw i'd struggle to get over 350km or so!! Gonna be nasty when she's tuned with the gt3076 and inj's in a couple weeks ;)

I normally hit 300km at the half tanks mark but then it drops quicker on the bottom half :)

How do you know that its unscrewing itself and going to pop off when you are in the car driving it? :|

cos wen u stop and get out its nearly on the last thread, newat figured out how to stop it, however it dnt matter cos unscrewing it didnt seem to make a diff in the bov noise so im leaving it totally screwed in.

i finally gave in , took out the plug that came with bov and used a coke bottle lid which is well more suited due to size. had it on now for more than a week and not a problem.

and btw this bov only cost me $50! brand new so wooops its a cheapy! but the spring is fine so far!

Thats very true, it does get annoying after a while which is why i still got the plumb back in the garage.

As for the stalling issues, its how you drive really. How do you pull up at the lights? Ill give an example.

How not to stall: Drive normally, not backing off on clutch after boosting right heavily.

How to stall: Rev it up on boost, then push the clutch in and hold it whilst coming to a stop and i guarantee you will stall.

Ive never had any problems with my atmo bov, people crying that it will burn more petrol because it runs richer blah blah. But how does that explain my 550km per tank economy?

my car is auto so i dont have that problem!

I normally hit 300km at the half tanks mark but then it drops quicker on the bottom half :D

are u for real?!! are you doing a lot of freeway driving?

wish i got that fuel economy :)

*looks in empty wallet*

How not to stall: Drive normally, not backing off on clutch after boosting right heavily.

How to stall: Rev it up on boost, then push the clutch in and hold it whilst coming to a stop and i guarantee you will stall.

This is retarded.

Why would you have to change your driving style for a BOV?

The car should never stall, period.

With it in, it is stuffing up the AFM system, hence just generally being useless.

Learn how this shit works people!

Get whatever BOV u want and Block it off. If it stalls change the spring... or the adjustment the tightness of the spring.. if it's running rich get an Aftermarket Ecu and Tune, if u want even a better sound Block it off.. so u can float like a butterfly n sound like a Butterfly haha or just get a Butterfly BOV...

Fully Sick Uleh...

-SeS

Edited by Black_CSR
so did your old one break and you couldn't find another standard one, or did you just want to be fully sick uleh, and attract more unwanted attention of the cops, so they hate Skylines even more?

If you install a ATMO bov on a Air Flow Metered car, you're a complete idiot and don't understand how an engine works, and shouldn't be allowed to drive a turbocharged car.

Also, you didn't try to search, there is about 100 threads on this.

Sounds a bit harsh but its all true.

I think u need to get over it mafia, just because u dont like the sound doesnt mean it is bad. Or is it just because u failed to get one to run properly on your car when others have no issues?

Your certainly not some mad engineer just because ur running a stock bov or understand its better to run a recirculating bov on a car with a MAF

There is plenty of tough cars with atmo bov's its just the the shit cars with crappy sounding bov's far outnumber them

Besides your choice of rims is more of a crime than any atmo bov

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