Jump to content
SAU Community

1 & 2 Piece Billet Girdles - Is There Any Interest?

shanef

By shanef,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

As some of you are aware, i'm in the motion of producing a billet girdle for the rb's. The first one is designed for the 4wd rb30 guys, but i have the capacity to get them made for any rb engine.

What i need to find out is what kind of interest there would be for such an item. There are 2 options, the latter would be the better option, but the first one i have one going in a track car very shortly, so we'll see how that one works.

a) 2 piece billet girdle - The girdle incorporates the sump adapter for the 4wd rb30 conversion. It has a step down to fit to the std cradle (which the main caps are machined to fit)

b) 1 piece billet girdle - The girdle again incorporates the sump adapter for the 4wd rb30 conversion. It is a single unit and replaces the entire std cradle. The bearings are fitted to this new girdle.

The pics below are of the 2 piece option. I'm currently working on the 1 piece girdle, however it wont be ready for some time.

Pricing for these arent cheap, i'll be making 2 parts of stuff all ontop also. 2 piece is around the $2000 mark (including everything needed to bolt it on). 1 piece is around the $3000 mark, pricing for the 1 piece isnt definate yet.

One thought i have had, is to offer the girdle with a machined block/crank to suit. That way eliminating any form of machining error, done in the one place to exact specifications.

I welcome your thoughts and opinions.

cheers

Shane

girdle004rb4.th.jpggirdle005gt2.th.jpggirdle006fs4.th.jpggirdle007aq6.th.jpggirdle008bq9.th.jpg

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted

As someone who's doing the RB30 currently, to be honest, i would say no mainly due to the price but also the fact that AFAIK there's nothing really wrong with the normal one, and plenty of RB30's are doing very well without one :rofl:

It looks stunning though!

shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
  • Author
Posted
As someone who's doing the RB30 currently, to be honest, i would say no mainly due to the price but also the fact that AFAIK there's nothing really wrong with the normal one, and plenty of RB30's are doing very well without one :rofl:

It looks stunning though!

cheers for the comments. i thought that would be the case. but someone had to come up with an available one

at what point would you upgrade to one of these?

tbh you prolly wouldnt bother with anything below 750hp and 7500rpm. although any extra block/bottom end strength must be seen as a plus.

as N1GTR said though, there are rb30's out there doing fine, then there are ones that arent

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

send it OS get the price realistic and i reckon you would sell quite a few. Target price needs to be $999

(it would be nice to see it without the adapter also, for generic use) would the engine need to be lifted to accomodate for extra thickness between sump and block? i know my sump sits within 3-4mm of the xmemeber.

shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
  • Author
Posted
send it OS get the price realistic and i reckon you would sell quite a few. Target price needs to be $999

(it would be nice to see it without the adapter also, for generic use) would the engine need to be lifted to accomodate for extra thickness between sump and block? i know my sump sits within 3-4mm of the xmemeber.

thats a great idea but where in the world would i find a contact for that? if you have any idea i'm willing to talk...

making them without the added adapter is a piece of piss, its just a 2min model change :)

the below pics are of my 26/30 with my 10mm adapter plate (32gtr), as u can see theres about 4mm clearance (sry for pic size, my nets capped :))

Diff2.jpg

Diff.jpg

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...