Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

What's the best time to get there to enter?

Me and a couple of mates are going to have a run tomorrow night

gates open at 5 for competitors, sometimes 4.50pm thel open, then u got through scrutineering and then u will probly wait around for half an hour or so coz racing starts at 6pm

yep - rev limit clutch dump works well :cool:

nah - something around 4000rpm works from what ive read, then bleed the clutch out or pop it out if you got a hd clutch

otherwise just work around that value - try 4000rpm one time, then 4500 rpm then 3500 rpm, then just feel around them till you find something that works for you

lately ive seen a few gtrs down at the strip runnin like 14s alot off ppl are revvin to like 3000 3500 droppin the clutch and its just bogging off the line, depends really if u gotta heavy duty clutch or not, if not i wouldnt try launching too hard, if u do i think ya should git it 4000rpm+ and practise gettin off the line without bogging it

4000rpm should be alright, i notice some people rev it o 4000rpm and straight out drop the clutch and it bogs, if u go a bit slower on the clutch to keep the revs up and give it plenty of throttle it should launch ok, i have got a 2.0sec 60ft last week in my gtst

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Perfect, I'll get to it this winter then at the same time as I weld on my anti squat kit. 
    • Alright so my 32 only has one temperature no matter what degree you set it to. I’ve tried disconnecting the servo motor arm and moving it either direction and got no change. I’ve fixed the leak in my AC and re charged it and with it on and clutch engaged it still blows hot even though the low pressure pipe going to the firewall is ice cold. Both heater core hoses are hot while running as well. Diagnostic code showed 24 for intake air temperature sensor. Anybody got any ideas?
    • I said Garrett style. Not Garrett genuine. And something in the G30 550 range is what you want. Not those pokey little old fashioned T28 sized things. The intake ports in the head are small. There is little benefit in fattening up the runners and leaving ths actual ports small. Just run what you've got. And on the subject of Nistune vs Haltech etc..... You know you can control the transmission with decent standalone ECUs these days, right? No need to keep any of that old Nissan bullshit. Don't get me wrong - I use Nistune on my Neo. But it is a DET, so the number of bodges and workarounds I had to do to make it work in a chassis without ABS, TCS, etc, is quite small compared to the herniated arsehole you will have trying to make it work on a motor that doesn't have some of the things that the turbo ECU wants to see. Just easier to bite the bullet and go aftermarket outright.      
    • Hmm. Only when the f**king thing is actually working. Still can't find the leak. And that's with dye being put in the last 3 times!
×
×
  • Create New...