Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all im bout to get my car tuned and i dunno what to do,, i want more airflow to the turboz (r32 gtr n1s! ) what do you lot reckon ?

remap with Z32s or

a apexi power fc d jetro thing that removes them alltogether for maps ..

wich one is better in your opinion ? coz the both are conna cost close enough to the same, bur i want to know what your using to ,,

cheers pete .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/208001-power-fc-d-jetro-or-remap-with-z32s/
Share on other sites

get nismo afms - they are 65mm but are z32 internals so same bolt patter / direct swap etc but will flow heaps more with resolution

if you move to z32s you need to change the pipe work / air box / pods / pipes as they are 80mm and different pattern etc

nismo cheapest and easiest

z32 next

then djetro

350 @ the rubber with R32 N1's... ouch!

Im not sure if you'll get close to that mate. R32 N1's are just a less responsive model than R33, and then R34 in succession.

Whats the budget?

Normal PFC - $900

Nismo AFM's (same as Z32, bolts to factory piping) - $350ea

Whats a d-jectro worth these days?

Also - what does your tuner say about it all? Thats the most important factor being he will be the one using the ECU, you want to give him something he can really work with.

Nothing wrong with AFM's, lots of for/against for them, but end of the day they dont hinder the car so i fail to see them as a problem... if anything they aid tuning and making it easier

sorry im a dickhead thier r34N1s lol i put them on about 2 months ago ,, im thinking ill go these nismo afms were do i get a set from ? with the plugs?

cheers pete.

Try Perfect Run

http://www.perfectrun.com.au/performance%2...irflowmeter.htm

The AUD is good now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...