Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Just ordered a HKS GT2835 Pro S from Greenline for my R33 GTS-T and I was wondering what sort of torque figure I should be expecting with it.

Yes I've done a search, and looked in the dyno threads and I couldn't find any info regarding torque output. Here are my mods (well, will be in about 2 weeks time):

GReddy Front mount I/C

SplitFire Coil Packs

Power FC

Straight through 3.5 inch exhaust

Pod filter with custom Cold air intake

Bosch 040 Fuel pump

Nismo 555cc Injectors

HKS GT2835 Pro S Turbo

Z32 AFM

Running 17 PSI

I know I should see about 250 - 260 KW at the rear wheels by looking at the RB25 dyno threads, but what about torque output?

I am sure most of you know that torque wins races, not kw. So, any ideas?? Has anyone with a HKS GT2835 Pro S actually had their torque measured?

Hoo roo

Cool thanks..

Not too happy but, I found out that a 2008 Holden CLubsport has 550nm of torque at 4400 rpm, the graph in the link you sent only has about 520 nm at its max.

Does this mean that a standard clubbie would beat a GTS-T with a HKS gt2835 pro s?

a well setup GTST will take down a new clubsport no problems

lots of things come into play when going against another car

diff gears also play a big part - you'll be fine

i was able to take down a 2000 ish model R8 297kw ute with my 200rwkw and stock turbo and well setup GTST

the specs are here http://www.highperformancetrucks.com/truck..._view.php?id=48

a well setup GTST will take down a new clubsport no problems

lots of things come into play when going against another car

diff gears also play a big part - you'll be fine

i was able to take down a 2000 ish model R8 297kw ute with my 200rwkw and stock turbo and well setup GTST

the specs are here http://www.highperformancetrucks.com/truck..._view.php?id=48

They say there that the 0 - 100 km/h time is 5.1 secs for the maloo ute, would a skyline with my above mods be quicker than that?

cheers

yeah should be - i managed 0 to 100 in 4.88 in my gtst with a perfect launch and good tyres

that was with the rev speed meter and g sensor kit so it should be reasonably accurate ish

your reading too much into specs and numbers on paper dude

dont stress the car will be very fast on the street

even with the std turbo and a good setup the gtst is a pretty quick car

yeah should be - i managed 0 to 100 in 4.88 in my gtst with a perfect launch and good tyres

that was with the rev speed meter and g sensor kit so it should be reasonably accurate ish

your reading too much into specs and numbers on paper dude

dont stress the car will be very fast on the street

even with the std turbo and a good setup the gtst is a pretty quick car

Yeh, trying not to stress, but when you spending thousands of dollars (nearly 12K I've spent now with the mods I have) you want your car to be quick as a rocket and have power outputs to come with it.

When I got my car dynoed the first time (pulled out 202 rwkw with standard turbo and PFC) the tunner told me its not about KW, its about torque. Now I know the new clubsports are a fair bit heavier than an r33 GTS-T, but their torque is crazy, 550nm at 4400 rpm!

I noticed that link above with the dyno sheet by sly33 managed to get like 280 rwkw but only like 520 nm of torque, does this mean that a new clubbie would beat a GTS-T with a HKS GT2835 Pro s sicne it has more torque?

WHen you measured that 4.88 0 - 100, was that with the standard turbz?

With the mod list you have and a good tune believe me you will slaughter a hsv. You turbo choice is damn good for a quick response streeter. My bud has a very similar setup and runs low 12's on the strip. More than enough to take care of most of the v8's you will encounter.

as i said stop reading into the figures and just drive the car when its done

be sure you have your suspension sorted out otherwise youll struggle for traction

yeah my 0 to 100 was with the stock turbo

Of course they're going to make more torque... They're a 6L V8 after all. :D

Think of it this way though. They have 297kW, you will have 325ish. (Flywheel) They weigh 1800kg, yours weighs 1370kg...

Yes but I weigh 120 kgs.... lol

So you're saying, even though they have more torque, I will still be able to beat them merely because or the weight of my car (being less)?

as i said before - lateral acceleration and weight is the main factor here

dont read too much info magazine plotted numbers and graphs etc.

the gtst will run 4.11 diff gears and weight less - so it has more rapid acceleration

the r8 or whatever probably has taller diff gears (3.7 ish) so less acceleration, more top speed and weighs more

so on the dyno plots it looks the same or stronger but on the its a different story

look into a diff cradle kit to stop axle tramp

look into some better tyres

but try it once the turbo is fitted and tune is done etc

then see if you need more traction etc- i bet you will

I've noticed the insides of the rear tyres are wearing out heaps (probably about the inner 15%)

So, what tyre size should I get, 235?

WOuld it matter if I got 235 on the back and 225 on the front?

go see a suspension place about the tyre wear

you need some camber to align it properly

youll need a diff cradle kit to stop axle tramp too

some bushes will probably help with handling too

most mild gtst's go for 255's on the rear

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...