Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Why play with 5 stud when 4 stud Z31 bits do the same???

Front disc rotors are identical to DR30, calipers should be as well, rear discs are SUPPOSED to be the same but DBA replacements have a lower hat height, but that really isn't a problem, just need a 5mm spacer washer and longer bolts.

Anything else ???????

I see you're from Adelaide any pic's of your DR?? and is it on the road at the moment?

....Sorry no idea if those parts will fit though

http://gallery.910bluebird.com/main.php/v/Jordan/

Pics here.. its not on the road at the moment..

Why play with 5 stud when 4 stud Z31 bits do the same???

Front disc rotors are identical to DR30, calipers should be as well, rear discs are SUPPOSED to be the same but DBA replacements have a lower hat height, but that really isn't a problem, just need a 5mm spacer washer and longer bolts.

Anything else ???????

Its more for the amount and style of wheels Avaliable..

  • 2 months later...
Just wondering if the 5 stud Z31 bits will fit on a DR30 as in the front discs and so forth..

If so what needs to be done?

I know for a fact the rear calipers off a Z31 bolt straight onto a R30 disc rear. Have just had to do it myself.

On a side note, the pistons were actually bigger than my standard HR30 ones.

I know for a fact the rear calipers off a Z31 bolt straight onto a R30 disc rear. Have just had to do it myself.

On a side note, the pistons were actually bigger than my standard HR30 ones.

Thanks for that!

Bummer that my girlfriends Z31 got taken by the insurance company yesterday!

Does anyone else know a rear caliper up grade? Does not have to use the same set up for hand brake (i will be using hydralic) i know vb-vs or something go on the rear of a 31 anyone know if this is the same for the 30's?

I know for a fact the rear calipers off a Z31 bolt straight onto a R30 disc rear. Have just had to do it myself.

On a side note, the pistons were actually bigger than my standard HR30 ones.

so you used the better ventilated z31 discs? alot is similar, the struts would be. but the caliper bolt spacing is not the nice 100mm for 4 pot conversions and the like.

if swapping anything make sure its a jdm one. not a aussie one.

so you used the better ventilated z31 discs? alot is similar, the struts would be. but the caliper bolt spacing is not the nice 100mm for 4 pot conversions and the like.

if swapping anything make sure its a jdm one. not a aussie one.

No I was sorta on a budget when I did it, the only reason I replaced them was because my right hand caliper had seized and I couldn't find any R30 with disc rears, as the majority of them were drum except the hatch's.

When I save up a bit more cash I will definately get the ventilated discs though.

If you already have DR rear brakes, the stock MR/HR caliper (piston etc assembly) will bolt up to the DR legs to get you by. I believe the Z31 rear caliper (hydraulics) will bolt up to the DR legs with same size piston as DR and for rotors, DBA605 I think is the number, but it's also same as Z31 just hat hieght might be a little less which can be easily fixed with a spacer washer to make up the difference. About 5 or 6mm it is. I'm using RDA rotors on my KHR.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...