Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey peps,

i want to make my engine bay look bettre then it already does, im going with the "blue theme" i have blue radiator hoses and blue belts. the hoses connecting my intercooler pipping is also blue. i was hoping to find some RB20 engine bay pics on here but i couldnt find any... so here i am!

people throw me some ideas and pics if possible! much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/208758-rb20-engine-bay-ideas-people/
Share on other sites

Paint the cam covers, paint the plenum,Change silicone to blue, Hide wiring, remove things not needed in engine bay, change washer bottle/overflow tank to alloy, forward facing plenum, polish piping....

How much cash and time you got LOL.

aye she needs a good wash lol. if i washing the engine bay i only need to cover the pod filter? is there anything else?

i want to run silicon hoses through the engine but im no 100% sure wat are vacum hoses and fuel lines. is there a theard on hidding wires? wat shit dont i need in there drift pig?

im gonna polish the pipping this weekend i rekon :)

i been chasing a plenum for a while now, called car toys (SA greddy supplier) and its a no go, greddy only make em for RB25/6 :D this makes me a sad panda. gonna have to try and a generic 1 on ebay or something.

wash it :happy:

Thats wot i was going to say!! Its filthy, thats half ur problem!!

i been chasing a plenum for a while now, called car toys (SA greddy supplier) and its a no go, greddy only make em for RB25/6 :ninja: this makes me a sad panda. gonna have to try and a generic 1 on ebay or something.

Engine conversion maybe? That would work.

gallery_43966_2333_37603.jpg

Its not a Skyline, but it is one of the best engine bays I could find. The other one I wanted to find was the SENATOR engine bay, but I couldn't. Imagine a Skyline bay like that!! It is quite common in the Commodore scene, but not something we often do to our Skylines

sure are buddy i cant remember exactly but i got em cheap coz i work for CBC. where u located? u from adelaide? i could hook u up.

I'm in Torquay, Victoria. Shoot me a PM with a price delivered if you can.

BTW, Bass Junky has blue silicone intake pipes for sale, check the link -

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Si...up-t190454.html

If you need a new air filter, Blitz make a blue LM kit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...