Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey peps,

i want to make my engine bay look bettre then it already does, im going with the "blue theme" i have blue radiator hoses and blue belts. the hoses connecting my intercooler pipping is also blue. i was hoping to find some RB20 engine bay pics on here but i couldnt find any... so here i am!

people throw me some ideas and pics if possible! much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/208758-rb20-engine-bay-ideas-people/
Share on other sites

Paint the cam covers, paint the plenum,Change silicone to blue, Hide wiring, remove things not needed in engine bay, change washer bottle/overflow tank to alloy, forward facing plenum, polish piping....

How much cash and time you got LOL.

aye she needs a good wash lol. if i washing the engine bay i only need to cover the pod filter? is there anything else?

i want to run silicon hoses through the engine but im no 100% sure wat are vacum hoses and fuel lines. is there a theard on hidding wires? wat shit dont i need in there drift pig?

im gonna polish the pipping this weekend i rekon :)

i been chasing a plenum for a while now, called car toys (SA greddy supplier) and its a no go, greddy only make em for RB25/6 :D this makes me a sad panda. gonna have to try and a generic 1 on ebay or something.

wash it :happy:

Thats wot i was going to say!! Its filthy, thats half ur problem!!

i been chasing a plenum for a while now, called car toys (SA greddy supplier) and its a no go, greddy only make em for RB25/6 :ninja: this makes me a sad panda. gonna have to try and a generic 1 on ebay or something.

Engine conversion maybe? That would work.

gallery_43966_2333_37603.jpg

Its not a Skyline, but it is one of the best engine bays I could find. The other one I wanted to find was the SENATOR engine bay, but I couldn't. Imagine a Skyline bay like that!! It is quite common in the Commodore scene, but not something we often do to our Skylines

sure are buddy i cant remember exactly but i got em cheap coz i work for CBC. where u located? u from adelaide? i could hook u up.

I'm in Torquay, Victoria. Shoot me a PM with a price delivered if you can.

BTW, Bass Junky has blue silicone intake pipes for sale, check the link -

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Si...up-t190454.html

If you need a new air filter, Blitz make a blue LM kit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...