Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Will only deliver or ship thanks..

BRAND NEW! STILL IN BOX INCLUDES,MANAUL,WIRES ETC... $110 ONO OR SWAPS PSP,GUAGES,PIT BIKE,CELLPHONE,...etc..

The Defi-Link Control Unit II is a necessary controller to install Defi-Link Meters, Defi-Link Meter BFs, and Defi-Link Displays. Up to 7 gauges and displays can be connected and controlled by one Control Unit II. The name of the connection system is "Defi-Link System."

The Defi-Link System allows gauges and displays to be attached to the Defi-Link Control Unit II with a single "DAISY CHAIN" wiring system

PRODUCT FEATURES

Defi-Link Control Unit II is a necessary controller to install Defi-Link Meters, Defi-Link Meter BFs, and Defi-Link Displays. Up to 7 gauges and displays can be connected and controlled by one Control Unit II. The name of the connection system is "Defi-Link System."

Defi-Link System allows gauges and displays to be attached to Defi-Link Control Unit II with a single "DAISY CHAIN" wiring system.

Feature Note

Driving data can be stored and can be replayed up to 3 minutes(*1). Pause, speed play, forward, and rewind function can be applied during playback.

Double Warning function by a meter's LED lamp and a beep(*2)

The switch panel is embossed and buzzer sounds by pushing the buttons.

The characters and the rings on the switch panel are illuminated in white at nighttime. It makes operation in the dark easy.

Defi-Link Indicator(sold separately) can be connected to M-WARNING connector. The indicator blinks when any of connected meters' warning LED lights.

Differential pressure between fuel pressure and turbo can be shown if both of fuel pressure meter and turbo meter are installed.(*3)

UP to 7 gauges among from Defi-Link Meters and Defi-Link Meter BFs and Defi-Link Displays can be operated with one Control Unit II. Microcomputers are equipped with meters and Control Unit II. A distant meter can be operated at hand.

Brisbane PM ME FOR OFFERS OR TRADES

post-48063-1204971039_thumb.jpg

Edited by 4age8u
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209509-defi-brisbane/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 7 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...