Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What are all specs of the bike?

Suzuki GSX1300 R Turbo 2000 model

What turbo (Specs of both wheels and wastegate)? Motor internals, is it still high comp with standard pistons or is it forged?

Runs a garret t28 same as found on the Nissan Silvia

What cams, crank rods, etc?

Stock cams stock crank and stock rods

Extended swingarm?

I have one 4 inches over for it but not on the bike will get sold separately

What boost, I see you state it is running 8psi? Is it laggy?

It runs off 4lb wastegate spring and off a boost controller it has 4 lb boost in 1st gear 6 lb

boost in 2nd gear and 8 lbs boost in 4th 5th and 6th gears. Laggy I don't think so

What exhaust, just a dumpy style off the turbo with no muffler?

It runs a full system with muffler I tried my best to make it a sleeper

What air filter?

K&N

Injectors standard?

Yes good for 300 HP

What tune has been done to the bike?

Dyno tune as the dyno chart states

and lastly what brake pads, discs etc and why was the colour changed, due to a drop? How does it cope with chains sprockets due to such high hp?

It has race pad and braided lines all round duals on front single rear line and also a braided clutch line

Colour change was due to the fact I bought a red black roller and was going to do a drag bike with it but decided against the whole dragging notion I always liked the red/black scheme so I did a fairing swap and sold the blue / silver roller hence why the colour scheme is a 99 model and the frame is a 2000 model To my knowledge the bike hasn't been on the ground

How many kms on the frame/suspension/motor? condition?

31*** ks at the moment motor is great like I said I had just pulled it apart and rebuilt the top end

Is the frame straight?

As straight as it came out of the factory

The bits you didn't ask for when you turbo a Busa the stock motor will be good for 320 RWHP after that the pistons and rods will start to go after around 400 RWHP time for a new crank. This runs a safe 250RWHP on a decompressed engine. The reason I had to rebuild was due to my own laziness and not retensioning the head when I bolted the turbo on .I believe the head gasket went on it at the first Dyno session when it was getting mapped and it still made its 250RWHP Then when you ad a turbo you must add strong clutch springs to hand on otherwise it just slips once you do that you need to strengthen the sprocket cover so the clutch push rod doesn't blow it out I have put a billet sprocket cover on it and it also works as a case protector. I have also put a brand new OEM clutch pack in it at a cost of $450 and it has never been down the ¼ with this clutch pack. The tyres are going ok but I think that's to me being a soft cock and not flogging it all the time The chain and sprockets are all good but will wear quicker than if it was stock powered

The blow off valve I have put into the ram air tube so it isn't visible from the outside it runs an intercooler under the tank which is probably good for 10rwhp over a stock plenum

I put decent Auto meter Pro Comp Gauges in it for the boost and fuel pressure

It uses a rising rate FMU for the fuel and a Bosch 040 fuel pump only 12 months old, as is the Fuel filter

The bike rides like a stock bike but when you hit the throttle you know it aint stock it has a PC11 and the frame and swing arm are polished

That is all I have for now cheers.

if you need to know anything else just ask I have nothing to hide

click this link for the turbo install pics if you like Install pics

oh and a pic of both bikes is in that link just to prove what i was saying isnt bullshit about having the second busa

how about sending me some decent pics and some more info on your car so we can compare apples with apples

Edited by Xhiler8r
  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

fat bike i want my license bak.

i would trade my 32 straight away but no license.

other then that mate CONGRATS on the best busa i have ever seen.

GL with it and hope u dont get more tyre kickers

thanks for the comments and i doubt that the tyre kickers is gonna ease anytime soon

I thought this would be sold by now, someones going to end up with a good deal.

I am amazed it hasnt sold yet I have had a lot of tyre kicking tossers asking questions and saying that they wanted to swap and organising swap dates and then nothing they wont even answer emails or PM's or even phones

I cant work out why it is so hard for the people that appraoched me for swaps to just ring up and say dude i have changed my mind sorry ok, I am a chicken shit and a turbo Busa just scares the crap out of me, instead of acting like 10yrs school boys that havent had their balls drop yet and too gutless to contact you ( You guys on this board know who i am refering too i dont need to mention names )

anyway getting a roady in about 2 hours time for it so it will be sold with a RWC and registration to QLDers only

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...