Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey...

ok i have searched this forum for diy resprays..

is there a diy thread on start to finish..

like sanding, preping, undercoats, painting?

im looking at going satin black and i wanna give it a go myself!

any links would be good!

cheers adrian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210104-respraying/
Share on other sites

a compressor thats atleast 2.5hp should be fine. if the car has paint on it, use thick sand paper like 120 grade to start with, then use a 400 grade and then a 600 grade, make sure you sand with a block and not just by hand as it leave grooves, make sure to bog any dents and sand flush. wipe down the car with grease and wax remover to get rid of any oils/grease on the surface. spray primer on with a thick nozzle say a 2.1mm and do a couple of thick coats. once primmed give it a quick light sand with a 800 grade sand paper. wipe down with grease and wax again, then start you coats of paint. do the first layer light, then build up with a couple more thick layers, remember to sand with 800 grade in between coats, after the final thick coat do a sand with 2000 grade, give it a buff and you should be fine

no im not a painter by trade but have done a few cars and all have come up nice.

hope this helps you guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210104-respraying/#findComment-3714667
Share on other sites

do u do a clear coat after?

now i know this is going to cause a discussion... hipe we can keep to the topic...

im going satin black...

now i know its gonna have to be straight as and thats not a problem..

now i know u still do the same procedure as u have mentioned...

but when it comes to the clear coat will i loose the satin finish or not?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210104-respraying/#findComment-3714730
Share on other sites

Grab some sand paper, some mates and a carton or 10 and have fun!!

Good luck, its not something I'd do to my 33 cos its too valuable to me, but maybe a bunky old daily driver, but thats me. btw, I dont actually have a bunky old daily driver, so that rules that plan out :domokun:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210104-respraying/#findComment-3715161
Share on other sites

buy a shitty smashed up vn conformodore and try painting it lilac for practice...

if you fuck it up then drive it off a cliff or burn it for fun

if it works sell it to some popped collar pink polo shirt weraring fucktard for 15k

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210104-respraying/#findComment-3715906
Share on other sites

are you using 2pak or acrylic? 2pak would be the preference as the paint dries faster and has a harder finish, and as lingeringsoul said make sure you mix the right amounts of thinners, paint, hardener etc

good luck with the job mate, show us some pics when your does...remember to add that wide body kit now :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210104-respraying/#findComment-3717358
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...