Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i tried searching and most of responses were for an external squeak in the actual gearbox. this isnt my problem

my actual clutch pedal is making a horrible continous squeaking noise (r33gtst)

i tried spraying some lube, it only fixed it for a day or two

i took it to a mechanic who used a stethoscope and some special spray lube, it fixed it for a week

the squeak goes (temporarily) if i apply a hunk of lube to the main piston that runs through the firewall, my mechanic diagnosed this.

does anyone have a remedy? i've been using wheel bearing grease.

i've found a few posts on other forums saying that they had to disassemble the entire pedal setup to pull out some wierd named components and replace, some bushes and pins and springs. is it common for skylines to require this?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210266-super-squeaky-clutch-pedal/
Share on other sites

Mine squeaks inside and outside. It's common on R33's. For inside i remember reading that the clutch pedal assembly can crack, and basically wear and tear means you need to rip the whole thing out.

I'll have to get it fixed eventually too.

Mine squeaks..

Mine is the pin that secures the master cyl rod to the pedal.

My bushes were stuffed so I removed them; if i push the pin to the right the squeek stops; it then slowly works its way to the left again and starts squeeking.

Looking at the pin and pedal section the pin has placed a fair whack of a dent in the pedals metal due to almost 200,000km's (255,000km's total) of running heavy clutches. ;)

  • 1 month later...

Yeah seems squeaky clutches are common but annoying!! Mine seems to be my clutch fork according to the mechanic and a pain to get too.

If anyone has a remedy for lubricating a clutch fork without taking everything out and making a big job please let me know.

  • 2 weeks later...
Mine squeaks inside and outside. It's common on R33's. For inside i remember reading that the clutch pedal assembly can crack, and basically wear and tear means you need to rip the whole thing out.

I'll have to get it fixed eventually too.

Hi There , Most of these noises and funny pedal feel come from the clutch pedal bracket which is obviously under engineered in thickness of material or the welder on the assembly line had many off days and didn't weld them enough, some people never had this trouble with the bracket but many others do,Subarus are notorious for it, and it's the kind of fault that will end up stranding you out on the road somewhere where you can't select gears and in order not to leave your car on the road while you get help you will destroy your synchro's or worse trying to get home,you may also have to fix any elongation in the clutch pedal hole itself and get a new pin to connect pedal to rod as these can get grooved.

The solution is fix it before this happens to you, for this reason I am buying a Nismo upgraded item which they claim to be 1.75 times stronger than stock and installing this while my box is out to replace the clutch,if you don't want to pay the $130.00 landed for the nismo bracket can I suggest you go to the search tab of this forum and type in "weld the bitch" which will show you posts that tell you how to remove your bracket and re-inforce it to re-use and while it's out properly lube the pin etc to avoid squeaks when you re-install it then you can have piece of mind.Cheers Grey Pearl.

Edited by grey pearl
is it possible to take off the rubber grommet on the box and insert an air powered grease gun tube and wallop it onto the fork?

my mechanic did that for my pivot joint. and still needed 3 hands to do it. very awkward

Hi Intercool, I would be very careful pumping a mobile substance like grease especially under pressure into the bellhousing area as the enemy to clutches is grease or oil as anyone who has had to fix a clutch will tell you,Jim Berry told me that 95 percent of clutches he sees have oil or grease contamination factors as the main contributor of slip or eventual failure.

Some guys on this forum have explained that the best way to fix this lubrication problem for the pivot ball is to buy a can of the o-ring chain motorcycle lube which is a foamy substance and carefully peel back the boot rubber on the bell housing and with the straw provided with the can spray directly on to the cluch pivot ball to keep the lube localised and not on your clutch which will make your clutch slip and create hot spots and hardness areas on your flywheel,not good,hope this helps.Cheers Grey Pearl.

  • 4 months later...

just get some rp7 and spray around every where where the clutch pedal has springs etc. make sure to spray both sides cause sometimes u can only see one side i sprayed it and hasnt squeeked for 6 months

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
    • Not sure yet.  Was considering speedtek because it was rated to 800hp, but when I did some research about him I don't think I will go for that🤣 So maybe giken gear set, but I'm afraid it won't be strong enough🙄
×
×
  • Create New...