Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Is that with a manifold adaptor or manifold, or a second hand kit?

Price the parts individually. The turbo is around 3K, the wastegate only 600? (seems pretty cheap) therefore they would have to be giving you a manifold worth 2.2K for 200?. If they did this every day, they wouldnt be in business very long.

Not knocking what you are saying Lepperfish, so please dont take offence - you did ask what people think:) I think someone has been miss quoting things to you, or you have the absolute deal of the century.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21041-gt3540/#findComment-443134
Share on other sites

Will an adapter plate be sweet ? And what size wastegate would you reccommend then ? If you say the 38mm is too small.

If the adapter plate to fit the gt3540 turbo to the standard manifold was a feasible option, then why would anyone pay $2200 for the aftermarket manifold ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21041-gt3540/#findComment-443573
Share on other sites

adaptor plate works, manifold (if made properly) works better.

If GCG offer any guarantees about the wastegate then go for it. I am fitting a 40mm gate with HKS 3037 turbo, I think it should be ok, time will tell.

Size of the gate isnt everything, it depends to some degree on the size of the turbine AR and how the wastegate is plumbed in relation to the exhaust gas flow as well. If they sell the gate matched to the turbo and manifold/adaptor - if it dont work, take it back. $600 for a new gate is pretty bloody cheap.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21041-gt3540/#findComment-443640
Share on other sites

Sounds like a good deal to me:

this is what i worked out.

GT3540s are not around 3K

in fact you can buy them retail for around the LOW 2K ($2225) mark (this is RRP):

http://www.rpmperformancecentre.com.au/Turbos.htm

g

Now if its a custom manifold your looking at (at a minimum) $1K. dont spend over $1400 on this.

And wastgate your looking at around $600

so i assume this is not fitted (otherwise its EXTREAMLY cheap):

Turbo:2225

Pipes: 1000

Wasgt:600

------------------

$3825 (pretty close to the money)

cheers,

trev

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21041-gt3540/#findComment-444237
Share on other sites

The size of the wastegate isn't everything, but it is still important to use a correctly matched wastegate for the sized turbo. I think a 38mm wastegate for such a large turbo as the GT3540 is too small. They really should supply a 50mm wastegate at least. The wastegate should match the flow of the turbo. So I guess a larger turbo would require a larger wastegate for better boost control.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21041-gt3540/#findComment-444545
Share on other sites

Originally posted by raist60

Think about the physics dude. It has nothing to do with turbo size its to do with engine flow. I am also fairly confident GCG know their shit, so why is everyone questioning them?

Can't larger turbos flow more air because of the larger size of the turbo? I'm pretty sure of that. Think of it this way, a small hose flowing air through it with a small valve to bleed off excess air. If you have a much larger hose flowing air through it with the same sized valve then there is obviously going to be more pressure built up at the small valve and hence restrict flow of the air. Using a larger sized valve for the larger hose will let more air flow out at a lower pressure which will not restrict air flow as much. Now in my analogy, replace hose with turbo and valve with wastegate.

I agree that GCG know their stuff, as they seem a reputable company...but what about HKS? I am pretty sure they know a thing or two about turbo systems too :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21041-gt3540/#findComment-444622
Share on other sites

Originally posted by EVOIV

Steve: If you are interested in wastegate sizes, the external wastegate that I got with my 3037S kit has a 50mm outlet. It's the racing wastegate with stainless steel flange. Not the top of the range HKS GT wastegate (that has a 60mm outlet), one below that. Which wastegate are you getting?

What size is the actual vavle? I believe that this is the normal way to express the size of a wastegate. Mine is a 40mm HKS Standard gate. It may be a bit small, but I thought I would give it a bash and upgrade if boost creep happens.

Bigger compressors do flow more, but the gasses have to leave through the turbine, which also needs to be taken into consideration when sizing wastegates.

for example, if you put a turbo on a car, and the turbine was so big that it only build 1.2 bar of boost, and you wanted to run only 1 bar of boost, you wouldnt need a wastegate at all. Silly example I know, but it is purely for demonstration:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21041-gt3540/#findComment-444654
Share on other sites

I have a 50mm HKS external wastegate. If you go to the HKS USA website, it's called the "Racing Wastegate S/S". The wastegates come with different springs, and mine was the 1.3bar one I think. It was too strong for my application, so a local mechanic put in a different spring (I think) so that the wastegate opens at a lower boost level.

Just found out that there's a new GTII Wastegate, looks very nice!!! :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21041-gt3540/#findComment-444677
Share on other sites

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by JNR24

Sounds like a good deal to me:

this is what i worked out.

GT3540s are not around 3K

in fact you can buy them retail for around the LOW 2K ($2225) mark (this is RRP):

http://www.rpmperformancecentre.com.au/Turbos.htm

g

Now if its a custom manifold your looking at (at a minimum) $1K. dont spend over $1400 on this.

And wastgate your looking at around $600

so i assume this is not fitted (otherwise its EXTREAMLY cheap):

Turbo:2225

Pipes: 1000

Wasgt:600

------------------

$3825  (pretty close to the money)

cheers,

trev

u recon u can get the manifold made in steam pipes for around $1400?? if so give me some names in melbourne that can do it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21041-gt3540/#findComment-446191
Share on other sites

Sub zero performance (there in quensland & web-sites down??) they have custom tuned port pipes, for rb25 for $1400 dude. You might have to pay they a bit extra for a adapter plate if you need one made. i think they bolt up to t3 flange & its a high mount setup.

If the pipes i make end up looking really nice, i might make a few sets for people for say $1000. Il post pics when i have finished them in a week or so and il see what you guys think.

Cheers,

Trev

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21041-gt3540/#findComment-446265
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...