Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1993 R33 Skyline 4 Door Sedan

RB25 turbo

5 speed manual

Engine:

GT30 turbo

Tial 38mm External Wastegate with screamer pipe

High mount SS exhaust manifold

740cc injectors

040 Bosch fuel pump

K&N Pod filter

Power FC Computer

Z32 air flow meter

SplitFire Coil Packs

Front mount intercooler with custom piping

ACL rings and bearings

Full 3" straight exhaust system turbo back

Oil catch can

Carbing Air Deflector

Interior:

Recaro SR3 driver and passenger seats

Sports steering wheel

Nismo gear knob

Power fc hand controller

Blitz Dual spec Boost controller

Autometer Monster tacho

4 Defi's Boost, Water temp, Oil temp, Oil pressure

Stereo:

Alpine head unit

MB Quarts Splits and speakers

Kicker Sub

Boss Audio Amp

Body:

Standard body 2 tone grey and silver.

8000k HID's

5% Limo Tint

Rolled front and rear guards

Suspension & Wheels:

Cusco Front strut brace

Tein Super flex coilovers all round with base adjustment

18"x9" ROH drift R's up front with 235/40 toyos

18"x10" ROH drift R's up back with 235/40 toyos

Car made 375 rwhp and has run a best of a 12.8 with a 2.1 60ft time due to wheel spin.

post-38412-1205688347_thumb.jpg

post-38412-1205688446_thumb.jpg

post-38412-1205688499_thumb.jpg

post-38412-1205688537_thumb.jpg

post-38412-1205688569_thumb.jpg

post-38412-1205688664_thumb.jpg

post-38412-1205688706_thumb.jpg

post-38412-1205688789_thumb.jpg

post-38412-1205688820_thumb.jpg

post-38412-1205688848_thumb.jpg

post-38412-1205688922_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210686-r33-4-door/
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

well the car is going to start to go into a new build with lots planed. the car will be turned into a street car/drag car. the following is underway now

RB30/25

Block prepped

Forged Spool rods

Forged CP pistons

ACL bearings

N1 water pump

GTR oil pump

New Crank balancer

Rajab racing water pump pully

ARP head and main studs

6 Boost manifold

GT 42R turbo

Turbosmart gate

1000cc injectors

Head port and polish

New springs and valves

Poncams

HKS cam gears

greedy intake plenum

Trimatic 3 speed gearbox with high stall and transbrake

Custom 1 peice tail shaft

GTR rear end(see how long it lasts)

Exterior wise i am getting rid of the 2 tone and painting the bottom half silver to match the top

Trust front bumper

M Sports sides and rear

19" speedy envy rims 8.5", 9.5".

I will update with photos as the build progresses. i am aiming for low 10's to start off and hopefully be the fastest R33 4 door in aus. the push for mid 9's when i start to make it for of a drag car than street car

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210686-r33-4-door/#findComment-4198284
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
  • 7 months later...

very nice 4 door,

I have an R33 4 door and have already got a similar engine build but mine is manual and Garret GT35/40R 1.06 rear. I built it for drag/track and I wanted it fairly street able.

The build is all done I am just need to get it over to the mainland for dyno tuning, I live in Tasmania :(

I am hoping for around 400RWKW, not sure what that will equate to at the drag strip.

I wonder what the current fastest 1/4 pass is from an R33 4 door in Australia.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210686-r33-4-door/#findComment-4752329
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can set hard reserves on your battery system, and it can't be discharged past that.  
    • That sounds like an excellent idea. But total self-sufficiency means exactly that. You have no-one else to blame when your system faults out and you have no power for a week or two while it gets fixed. You'd have to go the whole hog and get a diesel genny and all the switchover gear, to get you through such times. And, despite the fact that over 20 years, my system has been pretty reliable**, I have seen so many inverter explosions (or less dramatic deaths), panel and roof JB fires, and so on, over that time, to know that the stuff is the same as any other bulk Chinese manufactured stuff. The failure rate is well above zero - both on the equipment and on behalf of the meth addled installation labour force. And then..... warranty and means of redress against the supplier you bought the gear from. Best I can tell is that only a handful of solar companies are still around within 5 years of starting their advertising pitch. They disappear and phoenix like crazy. So, as per 1st paragraph, I suspect the only way to is go balls deep and spend maybe 2-3 times as much as you might think, so that you have every base covered. Plus, know and understand your gear intimately, so you can diagnose problems, sort them out yourself, etc, etc. Plus, probably have to consider upgrading various parts as the years pass, to maintain compatibility with newer stuff, performance and reliability, etc, etc. Whereas, remaining attached to the grid has an ongoing cost that keeps going up even if you use bugger all power from it. But it does provide the fallback in case of the worst case with your own gear. You either pay up front or as you go, I suspect.
    • Add more solar panels to the array. Call the electricity company and tell them you're moving out... Live off grid electric wise
    • Hi Jasmine. How's the war going?
    • I'm extremely suspicious of the VPP stuff. Best I can tell, you surrender any and all control of your panels and battery to the VPP, because there's no way that anyone could write a sufficiently useful set of "rules" as to how much you would be willing to let out of your export meter at any given time. If one of your main interests is to have enough in your battery every evening to get you through the night without having to import, you could easily find yourself with nothing in your battery at the end of the day, or part way through the night, and then be paying import pricing instead of paying nothing. I cannot see how this cannot come to pass.
×
×
  • Create New...