Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have spent many hours reading about HICAS this morning, and finally understand what it actually is and what it can do. I only plan on street driving, and definately wouldnt be looking at using my car seriously at the track for a few years. My thought is to keep HICAS for the time-being when my car (car to be...) R33 GTS will just be a daily driver/street car. Would you guys agree???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210897-hicas-for-street-use-only/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I have spent many hours reading about HICAS this morning, and finally understand what it actually is and what it can do. I only plan on street driving, and definately wouldnt be looking at using my car seriously at the track for a few years. My thought is to keep HICAS for the time-being when my car (car to be...) R33 GTS will just be a daily driver/street car. Would you guys agree???

Definently agree.

For street use, and even some 'spirited' driving through some nice twisty corners, the HICAS is actually quite good. It allows the car to remain slightly better balanced through the corners. The problems occur as soon as the rear end has let go (i.e. for drifting, etc), when it leaves you with a kinda 'sloppy' feeling.

The first time you feel the HICAS kick in at high speeds (it only kicks in after about 70km/h iirc) it can feel quite unnerving... almost like understeer but not at the same time! Once you're used to it, it's okay. For "grip racing", its really quite good... but for anything where you want to maintain control over the rear end without the computer trying to "help" you, it's gotta go.

also removing hicas will make your car feel heavier when parking etc...

with 18" rims, 320mm steering wheel and hicas removed mine is like an anvil... but you get used to it pretty quick...

also removing hicas will make your car feel heavier when parking etc...

with 18" rims, 320mm steering wheel and hicas removed mine is like an anvil... but you get used to it pretty quick...

Really? It really shouldn't make any difference whatsoever. The HICAS is designed to only kick in at higher speeds (i.e. 70km/h+ iirc), and doesn't move under that (unless you're parking at some serious speeds! :thumbsup:)

The 4WS system on the Honda's is designed as a parking aide, as it actually works in the direct oppposite way to that of a 'line. Ours turns the rear wheels THE SAME WAY as the front wheels... the hondas turn the opposite (tighter turning circle). With ours the car kinda 'side-steps' across the road slightly rather than having to turn and lean the car over.

Edited by Samon
Really? It really shouldn't make any difference whatsoever. The HICAS is designed to only kick in at higher speeds (i.e. 70km/h+ iirc), and doesn't move under that (unless you're parking at some serious speeds! :thumbsup:)

The 4WS system on the Honda's is designed as a parking aide, as it actually works in the direct oppposite way to that of a 'line. Ours turns the rear wheels THE SAME WAY as the front wheels... the hondas turn the opposite (tighter turning circle). With ours the car kinda 'side-steps' across the road slightly rather than having to turn and lean the car over.

Can you explain why my car steered like a forklift when going around a roundabout when hicas was still fitted and working. And no i wasn't going anywhere over 30ks round the roundabout.

Really? It really shouldn't make any difference whatsoever. The HICAS is designed to only kick in at higher speeds (i.e. 70km/h+ iirc), and doesn't move under that (unless you're parking at some serious speeds! :P )

The 4WS system on the Honda's is designed as a parking aide, as it actually works in the direct oppposite way to that of a 'line. Ours turns the rear wheels THE SAME WAY as the front wheels... the hondas turn the opposite (tighter turning circle). With ours the car kinda 'side-steps' across the road slightly rather than having to turn and lean the car over.

Pretty sure they turn the opposite way to the fronts to go the same direction as they are in the other end of the car. If they turned the same way it would make the car very scary to drive, by making it slide more. The tyres would be on a greater angle away from the direction of travel. As the car goes around the corner they turn the opposite way to make the tyres point in the direction the back end wants to slide in, therefore keeping more traction. I hope my explenation is understandable, it makes sense in my head.....

Pretty sure they turn the opposite way to the fronts to go the same direction as they are in the other end of the car. If they turned the same way it would make the car very scary to drive, by making it slide more. The tyres would be on a greater angle away from the direction of travel. As the car goes around the corner they turn the opposite way to make the tyres point in the direction the back end wants to slide in, therefore keeping more traction. I hope my explenation is understandable, it makes sense in my head.....

It does different things depending on the speed you're traveling...

Performance%20Tuning%20Systems%20HICAS%20explanation.jpg

As you can see from that diagram (from Nissan USA)...

Low speeds: HICAS does nothing... disabled

Medium speeds: rears turn the opposite way to the fronts at first (i.e. tighter turning angle), then once the HICAS computer detects that the car is responding to the turning, the rears turn back the opposite way, slightly reducing the turning circle but improving stability (i.e. theoretically less body-roll because it is kinda 'crab-walking' across the road rather than rotating around a center axis).

High speeds: rears turn the same direction as the fronts, like the second stage of the medium speed above.

I'm not sure of the official values for low, medium or high speeds though.

why the hell does it make the car heavier at low speeds then?

Hmmm... I dunno! It may depend on what they class as "low speed" and what you class as "low speed". i.e. if it's actually classified as "medium speed" then yeah, without it it's gonna feel a lot heavier... I'd love to throw my car up on a hoist and play around with the steering at different 'speeds' to see what happens...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...