Jump to content
SAU Community

GTR almost stalls when BOOST...

mickGTR

By mickGTR,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

mickGTR Collaborator

mickGTR

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone. I have just brought my new GTR 33 and yesterday was driving it around, I went around a corner in second gear and changed a 5 revs, the car then sort of almost stalled, and had no reving power at all it just idles at around 1 rev. I turned the car off and on and the problem disappeared. Again today same thing only twice it happened. I could feel the car getting a little sluggish and then........ back down to 1 revs with no power the car would just roll to a stop! Does any one know what this could be? Do you think it has any thing to do with the boost controller which I have not touched since i brought the car. It has only 12,000kms on the clock.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21127-gtr-almost-stalls-when-boost/
Share on other sites
HER-R33 Contributor

HER-R33

Posted
Posted

Air flow meter? Was having probs with my gts-t. Every now and then it'd get a bit sluggish and the revs would drop. Stalled a few times, other times I'd get something like engine/fuel cut out at about 2500 rpms - there was no way the revs could get over 2500. Started happening at 1000 rpm last week got it checked out and found out the air flow meter was stuffed. I've replaced it and havent had a prob since.

HER-R33 Contributor

HER-R33

Posted
Posted

mickGTR - might be an idea to see if you can find a workshop which has the new Snap-on computer system. I'm not sure exactly what its called but I know its reasonably new. You plug catridges (compatible to the car) into it and then connect to a particular point on the car and it will instantly computer diagnose the problem.

xzotik1 Contributor

xzotik1

Posted
Posted

I have been having trouble with my GTS-t,

It feels like it is surging when I put the foot down,

It was boosted @ 12 psi, went in for service And came back with this problem we thought it could be the cpu,

I said it shouldnt be the battery went flat so we thought could lead to the problem, change that still there, so its going in on friday, and we are going to look at the fuel filtter this time.

antuanstylar Enthusiast

antuanstylar

Posted
Posted

I have had the same problem, just got my car back from nissan, it sounds like an afm problem, element could be dirty or connection loose, i doubt you would have the same prob i did but inside the connector box on the afm, some the pins inside had their solder snapped off, they were still touching for a connection but it obviously wasnt giving out enough voltage to get a proper signal to the computer, nissan sent it off to get re-co'ed, the test and reco cost me around $120, but could be fuel pump or even igniter module but probly not, if the fuel pump was on the way out it would make some load whining sounds every now and then, and if the igniter module can be faulty when the car is warmed up

anyways hope this can help in anyway

mickGTR Collaborator

mickGTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi guys. Im having the air flow looked over by a mechenic today. Im not to sure if it will be that though, as sometimes the car runs beautifuly, and others, just out of the blue it will do as I mentioned. At first i thought it might be a problem with the boost controller...... but Im not sure as I dont know much about the mechenics of the car.

Regards

Mick

  • 2 weeks later...
Yakuza Community Regular

Yakuza

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by wrxhoon

everyone should know that imports have been turned back and in japan not many people service their cars .

thats why u see a 12 yo car with 10-50 k k's

yeah i agree with ya ..

either they turn it back or they just replace the cluster ..

have seen 1993 GTSTs with 30k km and average 96-97 GTSTs are having like 100k km on them already ..

maybe they just turned back the first digit on the left side .. :uh-huh:

mzgtst Enthusiast

mzgtst

Posted
Posted

mickGTR, Yeah same thing was happening to me, changed the AFM on Monday now the car is fine.

12,000ks, sounds abit suss......

When I was looking arond for my car, there was a 98 skyline at the importer with about 100,000ks on it. Went back afew days later, same car less than 1/2 the amount of ks on it....

They all do it!

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted

they dont replace the clusters ( extra expence ) the just turn them back usualy before they come in and almost always before they put them up for sale .

dont forget cars have a hard time in japan too .they dont do as many k's as they do here but always in traffic and not always seviced either.

i've had a few jap engines apart with lopw k's and they have plenty sludge inside , something u dont see in australian engines with very high k's like 300-400 k k's and the are still clean .

most peple here change the oil at least every 10 k k's and a lot of them use good oils .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • pez5
      ST Coilovers by KW SUIT Nissan Z33 Infinity G35 Coupe

      By pez5 · Posted

      PRICE  : $1400 LOCATION   : NSW Central Coast FIT  :  All Nissan 350Z type Z33 and Infinity G35 Coupe. See delivery note. Hi, brand new, unused, still in the box.  ($1850.00 is what i paid ) My bad luck !!! I thought my right front  Bilstein was cactus so i bought the ST 's to replace all.  Turns out the right front is fine ( loose mounting after service  by a well known importer of Bilsteins ) So im selling the ST's. They are made by KW ( no intro needed ) . Iam on the Central Coast and im willing to meet up in Sydney metro, within reason and Newcastle.
    • WMDC35
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By WMDC35 · Posted

      Yep, yeah would need to do the flywheel although the 6 bolt NA clutch can handle a 20de if just wants to replace the stocker.
    • GTSBoy
      braided lines for the turbos

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No it's fine. Heat sleeve is a thing. With oil running through it it is unlikely. Engine off heat soak can be a thing though. There is no way that you have a leak through the hose. That has pressure behind it and any small hole will turn into a large one in very short order. It is so much more likely to be leaking from the connection.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Really? That's piss weak. I didn't know they hobbled the shitboxen that badly. OK. So probs need to buy a flywheel too. But that's not too bad.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Hi all. I already posted some newbie-ish questions here and there but this will be my first "big" post. Last summer I went and fulfilled a kind of childhood wish, because I just thought I needed this experience in my life no matter what. The car I bought is a mildly modded 1995 BCNR33 Vspec. It was repainted to a metallic orange color all around and it had all windows reseated. Not so well done black respray in the trunk and a metallic black in the engine bay. From outside it looks very nice except for a minor paint error on the roof and the rear spats needing new adhesive tape. The inside is pretty clean and no broken plastics, missing or faded buttons. Even the adjustable mirrors and trunk antenna work like a charm. Despite a moderately long list of issues I don't (yet) regret buying this car. Most mechanical problems are just due to age, like worn rubbers here and there. The underside sadly has lots of corrosion, especially to the back. It looks like it either has been driven in the winter for a while or it lived near the saltwater in Japan, the rust is nothing terrible but it'll require to be looked after. Mostly panel gaps and all the mounted components underneath are a bit crusty, but I don't think anywhere has progressed so badly that there's going to be holes. Front right jacking rail is crushed and needs some care so it doesn't develop into a rust crater at some point. Worst part is definitely the strut towers. I thought they looked fine but after taking off the strut bar I noticed that it actually started bulging up on the passenger side. Probably would have passed on the car or negotiated down by some thousand Euros more if I had noticed this before buying, but here we are. Trunk area also has signs that there was a water leak to the interior once but nothing too crazy, I guess lots of Skylines had this at some point. As for the list of (known) issues, I'll try to make this compact. I hope the coloring is self explanatory. Mechanical: -Various busted or soon-to-be busted rubber bushings and ball joints. Will replace ball joints with OEM or better and bushings with polyurethane where possible. -Shaking steering wheel at above 80kph -downshift from 5th to 4th is a bit crunchy unless I rev-match, might just try to renew the shifter assembly, but it's not a priority issue -tailshaft centre bearing could use a replacement, is it worth going 1-piece tailshaft as it doesn't look too fresh all around? Chassis: -underbody corrosion on many spots and in hollow spaces, needs to be treated -corrosion on many bolts, hoses, lines, suspension components, subframes, will be treated when replacing of the bushings is needed as time goes on -strut tower top panels and some of the surrounding panels are rusty, so needs fixing. Will look into doing this with a buddy in the winter, otherwise bite the bullet and pay a professional -driver side door is misaligned to the body and needs to go a slight bit more inwards -both door windows are misaligned and have an airgap where the window meets the door at the B pillar -The Aerocatch latches for the bonnet have locks but no keys, need new keys. -driver side door window is kind of gritty and could use a polish -damaged jacking rails and front frame rails, from people lifting the car the wrong way, might have this fixed by a bodyshop Electrical: -Nismo tachometer is just bouncing and displaying nonsense, supposedly worked fine when the stock ECU was still in the car -An old Greddy boost controller sits on the dash which will be removed as it servers no purpose anymore. -a led segment rpm gauge is on the steering column, will probably also be (re-)moved once the Nismo tacho is working correctly -there was an attempt to make the sound system better by the previous owner but it was just inducing noise all the time, ripped out the amp and filters in the back, no music for now -trunk antenna goes up as long as the radio is on regardless of the mode, I want it to only rise if I choose Radio specifically or per switch -3rd brake light is a bit dimmer than the taillights but everything was converted to LEDs so mabye now it just seems dimmer? -reverse light flickers, have to test if that behavior changes when I fiddle with the gear stick. Hope I can get around changing the switch. -Left side taillight, blinker section has minor water intake and is humid after washing. Other side has a hole in it, probably for that exact reason. I'll probably reseal them entirely and plug the holes. Engine: -minor coolant drips on one or the other hose -rear turbo leaks oil onto the exhaust making the car essentially undriveable due to fire hazard -Oil filter relocation kit has an oil drip at the Dash lines, will probably make a new connection there and tighten real good and pray -throttle body assembly is slightly stuck for the first throttle pedal input after sitting for a while I'm always open to suggestions and advice from more experienced people, I'm sure half of this list is easily dealt with and just requires some time and effort to sort out properly. Once I have some proper pictures of the car I will post some in this thread, I just have to remember to take some more once I get the chance to. Will post updates when I have news on anything, I want to try to keep this thread as kind of a logbook as well. Ultimately my goal for this car is to just enjoy it. An engine rebuild is probably going to happen sometime as well, because it is old after all. It will never be fully new again, I am just not that rich. But I want it to look good, work well and not rot away while I drive it. I'm probably gonna spend a lot of money on this journey, hopefully not an unreasonable amount.
×
×
  • Create New...