Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lets say I have a complete automatic R33 RB25DET harness with the automatic ecu.

If I were to convert to 5 speed, would a 5 speed R33 RB25DET ecu plug directly into the automatic harness?

I know some of the auto wiring will not be used if so...

Just trying to figure out how hard it would be to convert a auto Rb25DET to 5 speed.

If anyone has any OTHER information too, please post. I'll be searching in the mean time as well.

Thanks.

EDIT: I also deleted and reposted this thread btw. The first one had some funny mistakes. I've been awake over 25 hours now. :tired:

Go to sleep man! LOL

I'll have to double check but I've got a funny feeling that an auto ECU will work fine with a manual gearbox but not vice versa. Don't quote me tho...

Is the mechanical side sorted? Ie flexplate swapped for flywheel???

Yes, the mechanical side would be all sorted out.

I've also been told the automatic ECU works fine. Anyone confirm that? I need to know ASAP because I have auto R33 engine swap on hold for me, yet it's an automatic.

BTW, I noticed in your post in my last thread that you said that all RB25DET's are RWD... what about the Stagea Wagon with the AWD RB25DET? Do they have those in aussie land?

Thanks btw. (getting ready to sleep hehe)

Guest RedLineGTR

In a automatic car their are two ecus

One is the main one and the other is for the auto trans.

The main ecu is tuned less richer than the manual ecu dont know why but it is. The Main ecu with work fine with a man or auto trans.

THe auto trans ecu is mainly for the auto box itself, the main ecu just communicates to the auto ecu.

The Connection to the main ecu and a manual ecu is the same and thier should not be a problem.

Cheers Rob

Redline, thank you VERY much. I had no idea and I understand completely now.

Will there be any check engine lights though?

And does anyone have any input on my engine pictures? It is an R33 RB25DET AWD right? Because sometimes other people looking at pictures can find different things. :D

This shit is hard to get info on in america. Thanks though.

You seem to be doing things a little bit the hard way, why didn't you just get a package RB25DEt engine/5 speed complete with ECU and wireing loom or better still an R33 front cut which would have given you some very useful extras.

Because it just didn't happen that way. One of the reasons is that this engine seems to be very clean. And it comes with everything a clip would except for the interior harness, cluster, etc.

Most clips I've seen don't come with intercooler piping or any of that shit, so I'm not really concerned about having a clip.

Plus, do you have any idea how hard it is to get RB25DET clips here in America? lol.... just try to find one from a reputable place. I searched high and low, almost every site I could find had a waiting list for RB25DET clips.

ONE site had them, but I would have to wait a loooooong time to have it imported. F that.

I'll get everything figured out..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...