Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Na To Turbo Conversion, Help Needed With Oil And Water Lines

J3TR33

By J3TR33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

J3TR33 Community Regular

J3TR33

Posted
Posted

hey need the input of turbo gurus here..

im doing a turbo conversion on my R33 and just wanted to know answers to a few things.

Firstly is it better to t-piece the oil feed line from the oil pressure sender or tap n drill?

How many restrictors would i need, and what size are they?

Is the oil return already on the NA block or would i have to weld a fitting on the sump?

And are the provisions for the water lines on the NA blocks or do they have to be t-pieced as well from somewhere?

Any feedback or answers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

lammy426 Enthusiast

lammy426

Posted
Posted
hey need the input of turbo gurus here..

im doing a turbo conversion on my R33 and just wanted to know answers to a few things.

Firstly is it better to t-piece the oil feed line from the oil pressure sender or tap n drill?

How many restrictors would i need, and what size are they?

Is the oil return already on the NA block or would i have to weld a fitting on the sump?

And are the provisions for the water lines on the NA blocks or do they have to be t-pieced as well from somewhere?

Any feedback or answers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

lammy426 Enthusiast

lammy426

Posted
Posted

my series 1 rb25de had all the holes in place with bungs in except the water one going upto the inlet manifold so i just tee'd that into the pipe coming of the water bleed bolt

J3TR33 Community Regular

J3TR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
my series 1 rb25de had all the holes in place with bungs in except the water one going upto the inlet manifold so i just tee'd that into the pipe coming of the water bleed bolt

yeh but myne didnt have the oil feed line bung at all.. myne is a series 2 engine.. but dnt think that makes a difference. and the rest of the lines we didnt bother looking into caus we had to figure out how to get the oil feed line first.

J3TR33 Community Regular

J3TR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Just tee it off the oil pressure sender, there is a big thread on this in naturally aspirated performance

yeh there is, and im pretty sure its my thread... but that only answers one of my questions about the oil feed line..

thers still a few things im not sure about, and hence i thought you guys might know the answers to

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nizzy_R34
      r34's love to squeal

      By Nizzy_R34 · Posted

      just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • Duncan
      Engine sputter

      By Duncan · Posted

      My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Duncan
      S1 Autech 260RS Wiring Diagrams

      By Duncan · Posted

      Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • Duncan
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By Duncan · Posted

      To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • GTSBoy
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...