Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guy's i'm thinking of replacing my fuel pump as am dammed if I can work out what my S2 R33 GTS-T's problem is.

Car has following mods:

  • Full 3" exhaust
  • FMIC
  • HKS Pod filter
  • Central 20 ECU
  • Apexi SAFC 2
  • RS type BOV copy
  • Turbosmart boost control running 10psi
  • Dyno tuned produced 206RWKW with an arching coilpack

It's stalling after a little stab of accelerator sometimes hunts for idle indesciminately and lately I've noticed it's loosing power down low then picks up when you give it a boot full to get it going, it does not like hills, my driveway is steep and it only just makes it up (struggles all the way lack of power) then half the time just dies when I pull into garage on flat. It kind of cam good for a while after swapping out the AFM but with all the damp weather seems to have gone back to it's crappy running self. It laso feels like the brake is being applied a lttle when you take your foot off the accelerator, does not seem to coast if you get my drift.

Fuel economy is really good so quite sure not the 02 sensor.

Oh and after got back from dyno tune the tuner advised he took out excessive fuel under 3000RPM and had to put more in from there on, he said the injectores were not flowing much after around 6300RPM

Over some time it has been progressively getting worse, I have done the following to date.

  • Replaced Plugs gapped to .6
  • Replaced coilpacks which fixed a breaking down issue on dyno tune at 4800-6000
  • Replaced AFM with secondhand unit said to be good when removed
  • Installed SAFC-2 and had dyno'd
  • Cleaned AAC valve
  • Swapped out BOV for standard
  • Checked for airhose leaks - none evident

I am at a point where I may have to spend big bucks with a local tuner (not many reputable ones to choose from in Cairns) to find this issue and I know they will be doing the same as me without alot of technical expertise on these cars, just using the "process of elimination method" and saying to me we need to swap this out then that then this and hopefully jag it.

What does a failing fuel pump or regulator feel like to driver with can anybody tell me?

Edited by shajar

One answer...Master fuel gauge!

Hook it up and look for about 250-300Kpa of pressure and about 50 more when you disconnect the vacuum supply line to the regulator. That will confirm whether or not either of your suspected parts are infact problems.

failin fuel pump would cause it to not run very well.. that means adding more revs and boost = less chance the engine will run. a leaking regulator introduces fuel into ur inlet via the vac lines.

doesnt sound like its fuel related but im not there to physically inspect it :D

One answer...Master fuel gauge!

Hook it up and look for about 250-300Kpa of pressure and about 50 more when you disconnect the vacuum supply line to the regulator. That will confirm whether or not either of your suspected parts are infact problems.

Hhhmmmm spewin sounds like a trip to the mechanic with a Master Fuel guage not so easy to come by...

The weird part of it for me is the way it struggles at idle (starts hunting) or when taking off slowly on any hill the steeper the incline the worse it gets??

Edited by shajar

fuel press guages r easy to come by what r u talkin about hahah, local tool shop dude. but it doesnt sound like fuel.. sounds more like a vac leak with the hunting...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • It turns out that Setrab make a fan specifically for the oil cooler which is great and I've installed it with minimal swearing. I removed my 2x 12in push fans from the front of my aircon condenser and wired them into this. My main thermo fans kick on when I use the aircon anyway and would effectively already be working as puller fans through the condensor which is infront of the rad. The push fans (understandably) didn't really do much in the config they were previously in so now they're out. Now we're on to the "Oil fan doesn't really do much either!". Yes I'll duct it next if it does nothing in heavy use which it shouldn't. But hey, the object exists and fits great and is cool. Let me have this. The car is still in the "do my fittings leak oil now? do my wheels actually rub?" phase. I did a spirited drive on them and didn't hear or feel anything. Then I got back home and noticed there were grind marks on the inside of the rims, though I couldn't see where they were touching I got out the grinder and attacked the suspects. Note: I do not know how to use a grinder. Then I realised I had dragged my new rims across my concrete driveway before I did this drive. I didn't think I had damage at that time when I briefly looked...... but remembered this occurred after I did all the angle grinding. The grinding on the wheels in some very specific spots. It's not around the whole rim for example, which lines up with dragging it across concrete more than hitting a suspension component for even 1 full rotation. So everything is currently painted and taped up and I need to test it some more to see if it really IS rubbing, but from inside the car it doesn't feel like it is. In other news I attempted to do a before and after comparison of the heads/cam upgrade thing. Dynos lie, everything is in different measurements. Here is the data from the sandown back straight. Car go faster than before. Vroom vroom.
    • Here's my base ignition. +3 correction to redline when shooting water/meth which is always on. Looking at my old ignition table, I should be able to add 1-2 degree's next time I'm on the dyno.  Let me know your thoughts. 
    • Given what I know now - same haha, but this was 12 years ago with second hand 740cc Nismo injectors in my S15 daily, I was too busy hunting elsewhere for the issue to even look at the injectors, running through some cleaner was a happy coincidence haha
    • Not a terrible idea. But if I ever had concerns that my injectors were sufficiently dirty to be causing me a problem, they would be out of the engine and onto the actual injector cleaner/testing bench.
    • Run some injector cleaner through it I had a similar issue that plagued me for months, even tried replacing the cat. If one or more injectors are blocked up the ecu sees ping so pulls timing and makes the tune rich overall, you'll see black smoke coming out of the exhaust and like me assume it's running rich but it could only be one or two cylinders  $10 bottle of injector cleaner and the next time I hit boost it pumped out a huge plume of black smoke, cleared the blockage and then ran great, if that's not the issue it's only a cheap thing to try haha  
×
×
  • Create New...