Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey

Just trying to remove the hand brake sleeve on my R32 and the thing just wont budge

Is there any special trick or method of removing these or are they just a general pain in the ass?

Have attached a picture of what I'm trying to do - section I'm trying to remove is marked in blue

Any help would be appreciate

:laugh:

post-11894-1206611311_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212303-removing-hand-brake-sleeve/
Share on other sites

nah dont do that man you'll stuff it.

i had the same drama when i put my "drift button" in like 2 weeks ago.

get a thin flat head screw driver, and fit it in where the leather meets the metal part of the hand brake, push it in and wiggle it around so it loosens up the leather, do it all round it then pull it off with ur muscles.

btw make sure you pull out the litte black metal piece around the normal hand brake button.

look at ur hand brake an you'll get what i mean.

btw dont worry about it loosening to much, i put mine back on and its tight as.

cheers, issa.

edit* make sure its not just actual leather, its also the soft stuff under the leather that you gotta squeeze the flat head into. so basically inbetween the metal and what ever else there is.

Edited by phat_man

haha I wouldn't have done that Issa, we were just messing around

Thanks for that, I was wondering if it was just the leather part that came off or the whole plastic thing at the back as well - thanks for confirming

Its similar to the s13 ones then, the whole leather and plastic come off together

Will give it another shot tomorrow

Thanks again :D

lol yea i figured :D

it wont even come off if u did cut the stitching, its got rubber under it.

yea its just like the s13, get the screw driver to loosen it and break the seal on the metal then yank it out, then u'll see these pins that hold the spring in place, bend them out so they dont hold the spring anymore, then put the cover back on, then put the 'drift' button back on over the stock one.

anytime abu bakar, issa.

Hahaha thanks Issa

Such a prick of a thing and I didn't want to wreck the leather by hacking at it

Hopefully it comes off without much effort - the rest is pretty straight forward

Just to clarify though, you don't take the spring out hey you just pull the tabs out so it doesn't engage anymore but leave the spring in there?

abu bakar is actually my given name :thanks:

:D

Hahaha thanks Issa

Such a prick of a thing and I didn't want to wreck the leather by hacking at it

Hopefully it comes off without much effort - the rest is pretty straight forward

Just to clarify though, you don't take the spring out hey you just pull the tabs out so it doesn't engage anymore but leave the spring in there?

abu bakar is actually my given name :spam:

:D

lol, i thought that would be it :thanks:

really its just supposed to disengage the spring, in the perfect world it would be better to remove the spring as its no longer needed. but its a flamin mongrel to get out, so just disengage the spring by bending the lil studs out.

i was lost when i did it as we'll, it felt so shonky, it wasnt right.

all it is, not leting the handbrake lock. what usually does this is the lil spring, if you just do that, whats gona push the button back out and make it lock again, so you spend crazy amounts of money on something so small and simple, just so it has a knob so u can pull it out when u want the hand brake to lock.

out=locks

in should go up and down freely.

lol just explaing it so well (even though its so simple) so you dont think like i did when i got it, like how f**kin gay it is.

salem, issa.

Thanks again Issa

I tried again today with no luck, shoved a screw driver in and tried to get it unstuck with no luck

I will give it another go tomorrow

its not easy, but remember to pull that little metal bit from inbetween the button and the sleeve 1st, then u can stick the screw driver in between, helps heaps if u have a thin one.

put it in and bend it up and down then put it in further and just keep doing it till the whole thing isnt stuck onto the lever.

goodluck, issa.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, also, forgot to add these photos I believe.
    • Thought i'd update on this. I was able to get in contact with Craig Lieberman and later on Darryl Alison (owner of Kaizo Industries). Darryl was able to help me verify that my car was in fact one of theirs and is helping me find more info on mine !
    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
×
×
  • Create New...